FINE WILLOW BASKETRY by A. G. Knock Leaf design THE DRYAD PRESS A blank, light beige page. Above : ROUND BROWN AND WHITE BLACKBERRY BASKET AND OVAL BROWN AND WHITE GARDEN BASKET. Below : OVAL BUFF SHOPPING BASKET AND WILLOW-EDGED TRAY. A round brown and white blackberry basket and oval brown and white garden basket. An oval buff shopping basket and willow-edged tray. FINE WILLOW BASKETRY By A. G. KNOCK Member College of Teachers of the Blind (Arthur Pearson Prize Winner); Prize Winner, City and Guilds of London Institute; Late Assistant Supervisor, Home Industries Dept., National Institute for the Blind. THE DRYAD PRESS Copyright. H V1658 K cop1 First Published 1929. Made and Printed in Great Britain at The Blackthorn Press, Ltd., Lancaster—1930. CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION 5
WILLOWS, THEIR GROWTH, HARVESTING, AND PREPARATION FOR USE 9
THE WORKSHOP PLANT AND TOOLS 13
TECHNICAL TERMS 16
METHODS OF WEAVING 18
BORDERS AND HANDLES 26
SKEIN WORK 36
ROUND WORK 45
OVAL WORK 53
SQUARE AND RECTANGULAR WORK 55
OTHER SHAPES AND KINDS OF WORK 61
CONCLUSION 64
3 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
ROUND BROWN AND WHITE BLACKBERRY BASKET, PAGB
OVAL BROWN AND WHITE GARDEN BASKET,
OVAL BUFF SHOPPING BASKET AND
WILLOW-EDGED TRAY ... Frontispiece
ROUND WHITE BREAD OR FRUIT BASKET AND
CLOSE-BANDED BUFF PICNIC BASKET ... 68
OBLONG, BUFF BABY'S OR WORK BASKET, AND
BOAT BASKET AND LIDDED "SOUTHPORT" BASKET ... 67
ROUND BUFF SHOPPING BASKET AND
HALL-MOON BUFF CYCLE BASKET ... 68
ROUND BUFF LINEN BASKET ... 69
(These examples were made by the writer.) 4 INTRODUCTION. "When young and old in circle around the firebrands close, When the girls are weaving baskets and the lads are shaping bows." —Macaulay. THE word "fine" in the title of this little book has been chosen to express those qualities of tenderness, smallness, and delicacy which characterize the work of the weavers of the ancient races; but at the outset it is suggested that the word be understood to include those higher attributes of perfection, refinement, elegance, and beauty, for which the word "fine" belongs to another sense: fine is synonymous with "exquisite," and "free from foreign matter." It is intended that the word as used here shall, with one or two minor exceptions, embrace this meaning as well. In the main it is the home- grown product of the weaver's own hands, and it is only by such things can be shown in a book, how to manipulate it by traditional British methods. The word traditional is aptly applied to willow basket making, as it was to the art of weaving baskets (Pitman) by Thomas Okey, lately Professor of Italian at Cambridge, no book worthy of serious consideration has, so far as the writer is aware, been published in this country. This present effort is in part a continuation of his work on basket-making, for which, and for its learned author, the present writer has the greatest respect, and readers are recommended to study Dr. Okey's treatise with care. But while he deals with basket-making as a whole, the present work as an augmentation of it, dealing more particularly with one particular section. Writings on "care work" are more extensive but the majority of them will be of little use to those seeking information concerning basket-making. The following quotation from "Care Work" by Charles Crompton (who is incidentally a master craftsman in willow), published by The Dryad Press, can be regarded as the best summary of what is meant by "care work": "The basket is treated of on lines based on the traditional methods employed by willow workers when using whole rattan cane; and the hint may be drawn out here that the worker in centre-cane cannot do better than follow the instructions given in this tradition, for monetary as well as utilitarian and aesthetic reasons. On its historical side basket-making is rich in interest. Its beginning may be traced to primitive antiquity; but there is no question as to its great antiquity. Neolithic tribes employed it to meet most of the requirements of daily life. Markings on very early ceramic ware prove that basket models were made for carrying of earthenware vessels. The inventors of the pottery were highly probable that the first pot of all was the result of placing a wicker vessel daubed with clay upon a fire. Textile weaving developed from 5 basket-work, the first crude webs being produced by laying a set of rushes on the ground for the warp upon which the weft of similar material was woven with the fingers. The American Indian have from time immemorial practised basketry of this kind, weaving into their productions of rare artifices and objects of beauty, for those who have eyes to see, the thoughts and aspirations of their primitive minds. The Ancient Briton built his coracle of wicker, and the Druids made their sacred boughs of wicker, and in them to which he burnt his human sacrifices. As basketry is one of the oldest it is also one of the most universal of the arts. It has been practised from age to age past or present which has not had some knowledge of it. Naturally indigenous materials were, and in the main still are, used, each race building up through the centuries its own special characteristics and possibilities and limitations of its native materials. In this respect no other peoples we in this country have our tradition in basketry, and this little book is an attempt to add to the embodiment of that tradition in the poorer parts of our country. Basket-making, particularly willow basket-making, is essentially a handicraft, and as such is of considerable educational value in training the hand and mind. It requires patience, care and neatness. Economically its practice on a larger scale in this country would not only provide employment but would also increase the consumption of basket willows which, given proper attention, are some of the most profitable of agricultural products. It must be added, however, that no ready-made market for fine basketry exists, that at a price which would enable it to compete with imported goods. This is due partly to its production. Continental village industries, aided by the State and by superior organisation, lower standards of living, longer working seasons, etc., have enabled them to produce at a lower cost than the home producer, and the market will not easily be regained. The education of the public in which the main does not know a good basket from an inferior one is another factor which hinders progress. The practice of willow basketry in this country, for it is upon quality and fine workmanship that any revival must, it is thought, be based. As an artcraft, willow basketry may be capable of considerable development, providing sufficient encouragement and instruction to those interested. But it is not a craft that can be mastered in a few lessons, and still less by mere study of a book such as this. Perseverance, patience, and strict attention to detail are required. The beginner should learn his maker has to serve at least three years' apprenticeship, working five and a half days a week, before he is proficient. This is not necessary in the case of the craftsman who can limit the range of work undertaken, and can afford to ignore some of the nicer points of craftsmanship. A page from a book about basketry. which, admirable as they are, are perhaps rated too highly in the trade, only to be passed over unnoticed by anyone not himself a basket maker. But on entering seriously into the subject, it will be found that some training in the near workshop should be had, or, failing this, tuition from a practical basket-maker with workshop experience. Of one thing the novice can be assured, he has no competition on the part of the machine to contend with. The work of the machine is rapid and perfect, but its acts are only too prevalent. A further point in favour of this primitive and old-world craft is that only a small initial outlay is required for tools and materials, and the time required for the worker to grow all the material required on his own plot of land. While it is strongly urged that traditional methods be adhered to, the same argument does not apply in the case of designs, and a large variety of baskets have been developed in shape and size, the latter being suggested by everyday objects such as boxes, bowls, vases, and other *bric-a-brac* found in every home. The baskets of commerce can also be seen in many forms, ranging from the simple to the elaborate, like the familiar Christmas hamper. In this little manual restraint has been exercised with regard to the designs used as examples; and the reader is recommended to consider the traditional forms exemplified here before giving rein to his fancy. One thing is important. As soon as the novice gains some mastery over his material, he should endeavour to work strictly to a shape and manner which will enable him to make a basket which will allow him to allow the work to get out of hand; and if this happens it is useless to attempt to make it "come right." There is only one remedy and that is to return to the beginning and start again. To do this the work must be put back where it started so that it may be worked on again. In the practice of basket-making speed is an important factor as the work is mainly a repetition of a few simple weaves or strokes. The experienced basket-maker knows how much time is necessary for all superfluous movements, a point to which the novice should give careful attention, particularly in the preliminary "cutting out" of material. He should cut out each piece separately and then proceed to perforation than do each one separately and insert it in the bottom before doing the next. An hour or so spent in watching an expert basket-maker at work will be of great service in this respect. It is customary to use a clock to measure the desirability of mastering one step before proceeding to the next, but while the soundness of this maxim as a general proposition is not questioned, ten years' experience shows that it would be better to use a watch. It respects respect for its practical utility as applied to basketry. Broadly speak- ing, round work is the simplest, oval work coming next and lastly rectangular or "square" as it is called in the trade; but the fact is that every kind of basket includes some work that is comparatively easy, 7 and some that is comparatively difficult, and the learner can exercise a considerable amount of latitude as to which kind of basket he shall attempt at any given stage of his progress. Wooden bottoms or bases are of many kinds, but in this case, as in most cases, making, except in the case of trays, to make use of willow throughout if the shape is a fairly simple one. In the case of more intricate shapes, however, wooden bases are necessary. Wooden shapes are made by cutting out the required form with a sharp knife and uniform shape, useful as they admittedly are, have not been dealt with here except for two examples, as the object of this little work is not so much to teach the beginner how to make baskets as to provide for him the minimum expenditure of time, trouble, and skill, but rather how to regard the work as an art-craft capable of combining with other arts and crafts in the production of things for purpose. The exterior decoration of baskets by spraying, dipping, dying or brush-painting, or by the addition of barbosa, raffia etc., has not been touched upon either. Some will prefer the natural beauty of the willow itself to such artificial decorations; others again will find decoration will find plenty of information available, supplied by experts in the various decorative mediums. Apart from air-spraying (or spray-painting) there is no other method of decorating baskets. Brown, practically the only finish employed in the trade is spirit varnish, that known as White Hard being suitable either for white or buff, and Brown's Black for black. As Dr. Okey rightly observes, little is done officially to foster the craft of basket-making in this country. The City and Guilds of London Institute has an examination course in basket-making under the Worshipful Company of Basket Makers. The City of London do what they can by means of examinations and exhibitions; and experimental work in connexion with willow culture is being carried out at the Long Ashton Agricultural College. But it is not enough merely to encourage people to learn basket-making; useful work carried out as part of the general activities of the Rural Industries Bureau and its affiliated organisations and by schools and colleges is also needed. It is a pity that there should be such a lack of interest in this craft among young people; and it is perhaps due to the increasing interest now being displayed in craftsmanship in general, by which basketry in common with other handicrafts cannot fail to benefit in these years. As has been stated before, it would be remiss if the writer did not acknowledge with feelings of respect those who have contributed to this little manual on basket-making; it is due to them that it exists. It is hoped that it may be used by a number of people who have done much to further its interests. Among these may be singled out for special reference Mr. W. Paul Gravett, F.R.S., F.L.S., F.G.S., and H. Pouch, names with which the novice basket-maker will specially be familiar if he is at all earnest in his search for authoritative information. 8 WILLOWS : THEIR GROWTH, HARVESTING AND PREPARATION FOR USE. "Cato held an osier bed in higher estimation than an olive planita- tion, or than wheat or meadow land." -Pliny Concerning the indigenous raw material of basket-making, the willow is the most important. It has little knowledge and that little is usually so vague and mixed with error as to be even more dangerous than a little ignorance generally is. For example, many people suppose that baskets are made from those cut from the willow tree, but this is not true. The willow is not used for basket making truly best in boggy land. There is also some confusion between willows and canes ; and the writer has seen gypsys cutting the "sallow" (Celtis occidentalis) for baskets, which are then sold and treated with making wicker chairs and baskets from it. As a matter of fact, few if any gypsies now make anything except clothes pegs, for which they use the "sallow," as a variety of willow. The other sets sold by them are obtained from factories and are mainly imported. One cannot go out and cut basket-making material from the hedge-row. Basket willows require careful selection, cultivation, harvesting, selection of the right kind of willow, and skillful workmanship to be ob- tained ; and it will be well, therefore, if we deal briefly with these important matters here. The information will be of use not only to those who have no experience in basket-making, but also to those who will buy their willows ready for use, as it will assist them to interpret the signs indicating virtues or defects in the material presented for sale. Also, it is hoped that an outline of the various processes which experi- ence has shown to be necessary in basket-making may help the reader from attempting "short cuts" or embarking on speculative adventures such as buying a plot of willow as it stands without the necessary facilities for its preparation. Willows belong to the genus Salix, which includes a large number of varieties and hybrids, upon the classification of which no two botanical authorities are in agreement. Broadly speaking, basket willows may be classified into three groups : (1) those which grow wild only in cultivated "beds" or "hotts." About seventy varieties are supposed to exist, but exact classification is extremely difficult owing to the diversity of form and colour of the leaves and twigs grown on different soils. Important considerations arising from this fact are, firstly, that variety and soil should be suited to each other, and, secondly, that the same variety should not be planted where one will should not be mixed for "buffing," as varying shades of colour may result. It may be added in passing, that the difference in shade would be greater if different varieties were mixed, or if willows reputed to be of the one variety were not all true to their kind. 9 The best soil for a willow ground is strong loam, but basket willows of some kind will grow on any soil except peat—not, however, fine willows for fine basket-making. The soil conditions affect not only the proportions and colour of the wood, but also the texture of the wood and the thickness of the skin of the pith. The best soils are those rich, heavy soils are to be preferred to those grown on lighter soils. A sufficiency of moisture is required, but fine willows do not need so much. The best soil for basket willows is a light sandy loam, which will produce ordinary crops satisfactorily may be used with success for the growing of the smaller varieties of the basket willow. The three species of S. Viminalis, S. Triandra, and S. Purpurea. The willows, which are usually one-year-shoots, are known to the trade as rods, the term "sticks" being applied to the larger varieties. The rods vary in length according to their years' growth, used for chair frames, bottomst and lids of large hampers, and similar purposes where stoniness is required. Rods of the S. Viminalis species are often called "osiers", their characteristics being a relatively thin and flexible wood, with a smooth surface and short roots and larger size. One or two varieties of this species are suitable for making skeins, but, apart from them, they are not used in fine basketry. Rods of S. Triandra are more useful than those of S. Viminalis for making baskets, and superior working qualities, and are sometimes called willows to distinguish them from S. Viminalis. For our present purpose we can exclude S. Purpurea as its make-up of frames would be outside the scope of most readers (for such a selection see page 30) of S. Triandra it is quite suitable. Of the two species S. Viminalis and S. Purpurea, the former is the larger, perhaps the best-known variety of this species, producing rods 4ft. to 6ft. in length. These are of excellent quality, suitable for either white or buff, and for skin making. The Pomeranian is somewhat smaller than the Viminalis, and produces rods 3ft. to 4ft., which are suitable as it is slender and of excellent quality, and, like the Black Maul, will produce either white or buff. S. Purpurea provides us with the smallest willow ground variety—usually 2ft.—and produces rods that are decidedly not much good white, and is therefore used exclusively as buff. The rods which are slender, wiry and pliable range from 1ft. in., to 1ft. 6in.. All three varieties mentioned can be dried for use as "brown," the trade name for rods of any colour other than white or buff. These three varieties—Black Maul, Pomeranian,and Dicky Meadows—will provide the full range of willows required in fine basket-work—and the selection could hardly be improved upon, although in cases where the soil or other conditions are definitely unsuitable some other variety or variety might be substituted with advantage. Before planting advice should be obtained from a practical grower if possible. 10 Useful information is contained in "The Cultivation of Oysters and Willows," 1/6 post free, from the Ministry of Agriculture, 10 Whitehall Place, London, W.C. Basket willows are propagated by means of cuttings or "sets" gin, to 12in. long, cut from well-grown rods in the green state. The sets are planted in rows from 16in. to 21in. apart, the distance between sets being determined by the size of the basket required. The sets are so short that only about 3in. of it remains above the surface, the buds pointing upwards. In the Lancashire willow-growing areas where Dicky Mears' method is used, the baskets are planted in rows 24in. apart, with a distance of 10in. between sets. Planting to these measure-ments, approximately 10,000 sets per acre are required. The distance between sets could be increased to 36in., but this would reduce the commercial value of the basket willow. For Black Maul Planting can be done at any time from the end of October to the time of the commencement of sap activity in the following spring, usually about the middle of April, but it is advisable to plant before the ground has been thoroughly dug or ploughed to a depth of 5in., cleared of weeds, and had some little time to settle. During the growing period the ground becomes more compacted and less suitable for planting. The first or "mudded" crop is usually of little or no value, but is cut so that the heads (as the sets are known when they produce rods) are free to produce a more valuable crop in the next season. The rods should be cut off with a sharp knife as quickly as possible to the extent that they do not dry out on their own leaf fall if the rods are to be "pitted." "Pitting" consists in standing the bundles in two or three inches of running water, and allowing them to remain until the following spring when they break into leaf and remain fit for picking for three or even four months. Alternatively, the rods may be left on the head till the spring, then cut and peeled at once, but this must be done before the second year's growth commences. In either case, if the rods are allowed to dry out they will be "double-skinned" in which state they are useless for pitting. "Pitting" eliminates all danger of "double-skinn." For producing bulk, the rods, which may be cut at any time after half their length has dried out, are left in piles for two to five hours or more, according to the nature of the rod and the soil condi- tions, and then peeled and dried. Peeling, whether for white or buff, is performed by means of the fingers of very small rods, or in "baskets," which consist of which are cut from 18in. rods. After being peeled the rods are dried in the sun and wind before being tied up for storage. For making "brown" the rods are left on the heads until all the leaf has fallen, then cut and thoroughly dried in the open air. 11 Proper bundling and grading is a necessary item in successful willow growing. It is the practice of most growers at present simply to "draft" the rods, that is to grade them according to length only. This is hardly satisfactory, as the rods vary greatly in weight, and employ sorters to grade the rods according to size, or pay the skilled barker, a price based on his ordinary earnings to do this work, which could be done quite as well by unskilled labour at half the cost. The lengths of rods used in making willows vary considerably; but usually, the trade name (still largely used) for the particular length being given also : 3ft., Tacks; 4ft., Short-smalls; 5ft. Long-smalls; etc. Though these names are not always strictly adhered to, yet as Dicky Meadows are graded into four or five lengths, the shortest consisting of rods up to 18in. Willows are usually sold by the "bundle" and by the "bolt". Three bundles are approximately the equivalent of two bolts, the respective weights varying with the length of rods. Fine willows are supplied in large quantities for craftworkers by the Dryad Handi- crafts, who also supply a quantity of "bundles". Willows must be stored in a dry place or they will become mildewed. For the same reason, any watered material left over from a particular ash should be dried before storing away. In order to make a good beginning work a rough estimate should be formed of the material likely to be used within the next two days, and that amount only should be cut down from the trees. The branches should be split to render them sufficiently pliable to be worked. Brown rods should be left under water for two or three days, and then be allowed to lie under a damp cloth until they have regained their natural colour. When white and buff rods, they will remain covered till needed for immediate use. White and buff rods require only from a quarter-of-an-hour to one hour under water, the time varying according to the size and hardness of the rod. The rods should be washed with clean water when not buff or white for which cold water is used. After removal from water the white or buff rods should lie for at least an hour under the cloth before being worked upon. The cloth should be changed frequently so that it quickly dry and it will be necessary from time to time to dip the unfinished part of the work in water or use a sponge or small piece of cloth to wash off any dirt that may adhere. It is necessary to work with wet hands or materials, and after applying water, the cloth should be wiped and the rods allowed to drain before work is resumed. Skelins require only a dip in water and a minute or two to drain, but they will work better after laying under the cloth for a time. 12 THE WORKSHOP, PLANT AND TOOLS. Willow work cannot be carried out successfully without an ordinary living-room or sitting-room, with windows for the other occupants and "making a mess." It is, therefore, necessary to have a room or work-shop set apart entirely for the purpose. Perhaps the ideal method for the homeowner is to have a workshop erected in the garden or else-where, but this is not always possible. A shed or a small building somewhat bulky to handle within doors, and there is also the question of seeking the material. A simple workshop might consist of a wooden structure 12 ft. by 8 ft. or thereabouts, with walls 6 ft. high and roof sloping to 8 ft. in centre. The space under roof could be utilised for storing willows these being supported on beams running side by side along the door course. The door should be placed at one end of the open ought made with advantage run the length of one side facing south if possible. There should be ventilators at either end, the floor should be boarded, and arrangements made for keeping water off the floor. The sides and shelves are apt to impede the free movement of the willows during work, but a closed cupboard will not be in the way and will be found very con- venient. Professional willow basket-makers work on the floor or on a "plank" raised an inch or so above it, a low box or stool being placed at one end against the wall for use as a seat in some parts of the work. The table may be constructed of wood or metal, and a light work a table and chair can be used. It is suggested that the worker sits at the side of table, which should be as low as possible relative to his own position, i.e., room seats should be placed at right angles to the table towards him. To prevent the rods from falling off table, boards may be fixed at either end at right angles to table top, forming fences about 6in. in height. The bulk of the prepared material can lie on the floor to the left of the table, while that which has been worked upon must be re- quired for immediate use being upon the table. The Tank or Trough.—Small quantities of fine willows can be soaked in a tank or trough made of a wooden container, and a galvanized tank with inside flange should be procured if hank-work is to be taken up seriously. This need not be large, say, 4ft. by 3ft. 6in. by 1ft. deep, or even smaller ; the exact proportions do not matter very much provided they are sufficient to hold all the water in which willows are soaked must be fairly clean. The tank is kept nearly full of water, and the rods are kept under by wooden sinks, which are placed over holes bored in the bottom of tank. Proper heating apparatus could be used for buffing willows also. Arrange- ments must be made for periodically emptying and filling the tank by means of a hose pipe or other method and a tap on the outside near bottom. 13 A plug attached to a chain on inside of tank is not a convenient fineness. The tank will be situated against or near the workshop, but not inside. For washing out the tank after removing from tank a small pot or other vessel filled with water and a sponge or cloth kept in the workshop will mainly be relied on. THE WOR-BOARD—The larger board shown in the illustration at top. That at bottom will probably be preferred for small articles, but in the case of deep baskets such as linen baskets, it is not possible to remain seated at table, as the work gets so high as to be out of reach of the hands. In this case, the smaller board shown above, with its nearer end lowered and resting on a stool or other support. Baskets with sloping sides should never be in a flat position, but should be held at an angle by the worker such an angle as to bring the sides as nearly upright as possible. THE SCREW-BLOCK.—This is used for holding the sticks when bottoms and lids of rectangular baskets are being made, the mechina being placed under the screw-block, which is then turned down. THE HAND-KNIFE.—So-called to distinguish it from the picking-knife. The worker is warned against the "basket-maker's knife" sold by tool merchants, which is much too large and heavy for our purpose, and is liable to cause injury. A small hand-knife illustrated should be chosen, with short blade and comfortable handle. The blade should be sharp right up to the ferrule. True Baskets are made by cutting off surplus ends after the basket is made, and that shown is of the shape best suited to the purpose. The blade is sharpened only along the end, the surplus ends being severed by pressing downwards as will be explained later. Sawing Basketry.—Swords are used for making baskets. They must be kept absolutely sharp, for which purpose a whetstone or oilstone can be used. From time to time it will be necessary to have the knives ground. SHARPS.—These are similar to gardeners' pruning shears, and those illustrated are ideal for fine basket work. Shears having the spring extending along the inside of one handle should be avoided. It A set of tools including a screw block, a hand knife, and a pair of shears. 14 A close-up view of a shell bodkin, showing its blade and handle. A close-up view of a bent bodkin, showing its blade and handle. is seldom necessary to have shears sharpened, an occasional drop of oil where the two halves meet being all that is necessary to keep them in good order. The BODKINS.—These, as will be seen from the illustration, are not the bodkins used in needlework, but pointed implements similar to the shell bodkin, but with a straight rather than a curved blade. The hands are shown. The Shell Bodkin is used to facilitate the passing through of a rod by pushing it along the hollow end and then withdrawing the bodkin. The Bent Bodkin comes in handy for inserting handle-bows into the eye of a bow-string. There is no particular type of this straight type of bodkin, which is made in several sizes is used in "staking up," "cramping off," and whenever a passage has to be made for the purpose of making a hole. In the case of the shell bodkin the size of the bodkin is not referred to in the working instructions given later ; but it should be clearly understood that the bodkin is in frequent use, and that it is always used in one size. The GEARER Horns. Many basket-makers still use an actual ram's horn for the purpose, but any kind of tube about half-an-inch in diameter and four or five inches long, closed at one end is suitable. The horn is inserted into the basket-work so that the point of the horn is thrust before use. It is particularly useful when the bodkin has to be inserted through a stick as in pegging a handle or "staking up" a rectangular basket. The bodkin remains in the grease-when not in use. THE RAPPING OR BEATING IRON.—That illustrated is suitable for the finest work, but one somewhat heavier will be more appropriate for larger baskets. It is used for beating down the sides of a basket as well as down the work, and it is used also in "leveling off," driving in "crams," and for any other purpose where hammer-like blows are required. Two types of shaves are used in this country for making skims as explained in the section dealing with Skin Work. The cleave illustrated is known as a three-way; four-way cleaves are also used. The wooden shaves are generally used for light work; two types of shave are used in this country, the wooden and the brass, the latter having a slanting blade which does away with the necessity 15 for readjustment to secure a thinner cut. It is, however, more difficult to manipulate than the wooden shaves shown in illustration, which has a blade level with the metal plate. The Upright is used only for very special work, its function being to shave the skin to a uniform width through the whole length. The Rule or Measure-Strut.—An ordinary rigid carpenter's rule is quite suitable. This can be 1 ft. long, or 3 ft. if the size of the work necessitates. The Strut is made by cutting a piece of wood into eighths. The Bradawl.—This is for pinning the work to the board. One with a thin, long blade is best for the purpose. The awl is driven through the centre of the basket bottom into the work-board, so that the edge of the bottom is flush with the end of the board ; in the case of an oval or oblong bottom, its position must be at one end of the board. A leather strap or flat-stirrup may be used either round the handle of the bradawl to keep the basket steady. Another method adopted by some workers is to have a round lead or iron weight with a hole in the centre, which is placed on top of the basket. A similar weight or bodkin (such as a chair-caning bodkin) is passed through the hole in the weight and driven through the basket bottom into the board. The weight thus prevents the basket from working out as the result of the constant turning of the basket. A useful addition to the tool kit is a pair of pliers for withdrawing or pulling through rods which cannot be conveniently dealt with by the fingers. TECHNICAL TERMS. Technical terms are a practical necessity for the efficient study and practice of any subject of a technical nature, and the reader should take the necessary pains to acquaint himself with those given below which have been selected from various sources as being most useful in basketry. The terms are those in common use by professional basket-makers and, in the opinion of the writer, no good purpose would be served by submitting to them any others. Bowstring.—The piece of work which neatly finishes off the sides, lid or foot of a basket, and formed by bringing down the stakes and working them into a definite pattern. Bowl.—The part of a basket which encloses the core or centre of a handle. Burrr.—The thick end of a willow rod. Byr-Skates.—Extra stakes inserted after the upsetting. Cram.—A short piece of wood bent at right angle, and pushed into the work. Mainly used in finishing a plain border, Drafting.—The separation of a bundle of rods into various lengths. For large bundles a stub is used, but smaller quantities can be held in the crook of the left arm. All the burrs must rest on the bottom of the tab 16 or floor, and the longest rods are grasped with the right hand by their tops, drawn out and laid aside, then the next longest, and so on, each handling being laid on top of the preceding one at right angles to it. By this method the shortest rods can be used to begin the siding of a few baskets, but it is not advisable to use them for the top where the distance round is greater and the stakes farther apart. FITCH—A pair of rods used to form open-work, and worked in the reverse direction of the HINGE. Flow—The outward slope of the sides of a basket. Foot—A piece of wood, usually consisting of one or two rounds of wadding or other material, placed under a basket when in use. HANDLE—A term used in basketry in precisely the same way as it is generally used. The main kinds of handle are the Cross handle, and the small handle, either on the border or just below it. HANGING LID—A lid which hangs over the edge of the lid of a basket which fits over a noose on front of basket, the combination being used in conjunction with a peg or padlock to secure lid (see illustration of Southern work). HINGE—Formed of twisted rod or skin and used to attach lids to baskets or for wicker doors such as those of cat and dog travelling baskets. Hook—Formed by coiling a rod upon itself and used for keeping stakes upright until upset has been worked. Also applied to the rigid framework used in "hoop-and-scallow" work. LADDER—A long pole or stick with a main bind used to cover a handle-box, frame or other part of a wicker article. LEADER—A whole rod or skin carried across a lapped handle or other lapped joint, forming part of a pattern. LISTING—A form of ornamentation applied to a lapped handle by working additional skrens round the leader or leaders. Noose—a twisted or plaited loop or staple worked on to the front of a basket, usually at the top and over which the haps fall (see illustration of "Southport" baskets). PAIR—Formed by working two rods alternately, the left-hand rod being passed over the right-hand rod and vice versa from again. The two rods used in pitching are worked so that they twine round each other in the reverse direction, this process when used in ordinary work being known as Revenue Pairing. TIPING—The process described in the instructions it means that side of the work which faces worker. PICKING—Cutting off surplus ends. Is usually performed in one operation after a complete part such as a bottom, body or lid has been made. PIECING—Joining a new rod to the butt or top of one that has been worked to its end. 17 RANDING.—Working a single rod before and behind alternate stakes or bottom-sticks. A rand in the sides of the basket is the section of work formed when a number of randings-equal to the number of stakes has been made. ROUNDING.—Applied to the sides of any basket without an opening, and to the lids and bottoms of round and oval baskets. A complete circuit of the piece of work, e.g., a round of waling, four rounds of upsetting, SCALING, etc., is called a round. The round is made by a single stick which has been affixed by looping its thinned end round a hoop or the outside stick of a bottom. SINNING.—Applied to any form of weaving used in building up the sides of a basket. SLATH.—A round or oval bottom at the stage when the sticks have been completed. This term includes the two processes of Lying-In and Opening-Out respectively. SLEW.—Two, three, or more rods worked together, one above the other, alternately behind and before the stakes or bottom-sticks. STAKING.—The act of placing a stake on top of another stake of a rod. STAKES.—The rods which form the uprights in the sides of a basket. STICKS.—Used for rods of any size which form the framework of a bottom or lid. The term is also applied to all materials which are used for the stoutest rods, generally topped and of two or three years' growth. Strengthening.—Any complete movement in basket-work, e.g., the working of a randing-rod behind a stake and to the front again. Also used to denote the piece of work resulting from such a movement. "Analogous to a stitch in knitting" (Cat. of Basket-Making). Tossing.—The thin end of a long rod. Upsetting.—The rounds of waling put on immediately after the stakes have been turned up to "set up" the basket. WALKING.—The process of pairing, in manner similar to pairing, the left-hand rod being taken each time, carried over the others, behind the stake, and to the front again. METHODS OF WEAVING. "And beating osiers into baskets weaveth."—Dyden. The principal tools of the basket-maker are those with which nature has provided him. Of these he uses those which are most important member, as Dr. Okey points out, is the left thumb. The main part of the work is done from left to right, the right hand manipulating the rod which is held in position by the left hand. The left hand may be holding in front and the forefinger at the back or inside of basket. In the case of rectangular bottoms and lids and sometimes in the sides of baskets, e.g., baskets with hand holes and dog baskets which have an opening in side, work is done from right to left, in which case the positions of 13 the hands are revened, so that it is really necessary to the complete mastery of the art to be ambidextrous in the practice of it. Perhaps it will not be out of place to quote here from the Introduction written by Mr. H. W. B. Smith, a master of basketry for children. "Great care should be taken to impress on the children the importance of the correct use of the fingers, and especially of the thumbs, in working each stroke tightly into its proper place. The understanding of this principle is very important, because a mere or less perfect conception of beautiful form in the mind of the little artist, and the power of the fingers to impress such upon a receptacle, are essential to success in basketry." The ultimate form of the basket. No subsequent pressure will alter it. The result for good or ill is as irreproachable as are the results of good or bad actions in the moral world. It is impossible to mould afterwards into good shape what has been made with a careless hand. This of course applies with equal force to adults and to workmen even more than cane work. The main difference between cane and wood is that wood can be bent without breaking, but cane must be plied instead of a curve when bent. This is a valuable property in the willow making for tightness and resiliency in the finished basket, always providing that the kind of willow used is one which usually immediately yields to bending without breaking, usually a soft willow. Particular attention is drawn to the importance of placing the rod in position and holding it there hard up against the stick or stake while it is being bent. If this is not done, either too much or too little pressure may be. It is incorrect to work the stroke loosely and then by pushing and pulling to attempt to tighten it afterwards, for it will have been hardened by heat before it was formed, and once formed the rod loses for good its resiliency in the part that has been worked. It is proposed to deal now with all the forms of weaving used in fine willow work thus giving repetition in subsequent pages. The reader may wish to refer back to this section for an explanation of some of the simpler examples, referring back to this section for an explanation of the instructions given. DIAGRAM 1. RANDING. RANDING.--This is shown in diagram 1 and in the siding of the small blackberry basket on frontispiece A. There are at least in some of the other examples shown in this book rods placed on both sides close randed, the other examples being light randed. Light randings is that in which the rods just touch each other. They are not driven tightly down as in the close randing shown in diagram 1. A few light taps with iron for a little distance from the butt of each rod after working, will ensure this. Randing with Willow in the case of bottoms and lids of rectangular baskets, and in sides where the randing 19 is turned back to form hand holes or openings, is carried out in a similar way to that employed in using cane, a new butt being begun where the top of the previous rod finishes, both top and butt resting against the same stake, and the butt being held at the back of the stake. But in the ordinary siding a different method is used, the rods not being worked continuously round and round the basket as with cane, but each new butt is laid in against the basket to the right of that against which the last butt was laid, and then the next butt is laid in against it. It is immaterial whether the number of stakes be odd or even. The work is Diagram 1. RANDING. begun by laying the butt of a randing-rod between two stakes so that it rests against the left hand one on the inside, about half-an-inch being left to be cut off later. The left thumb is now used to hold the rod in position against the front of the right-hand stake, while the rod is grasped by the left hand in such a manner that its point is held against the stake and at a point about nine from the right-hand stake. Now, still retaining the pressure with the left thumb, lift the rod and pass it between the two stakes, keeping it in contact with them until it reaches the right thumb and catching it and bringing it to the front again on the other side of this stake with the forefinger. All randing, and slewing also, consists in a repeated action of lifting up and passing over one stake and into opposite direction as the work proceeds. The process will be by no means easy at the beginning, facility coming only with practice. Resist the temptation to rand too much of one part of a circular bottom or lid by the use of cane in pairing or randing an oval bottom which is held by the right hand with back of handuppermost and elbowup in the air, an incorrect and ungainly method when applied to ordinary randing. The randing rod should not reach quite round the basket, and to ensure this in a flowed basket the drafting of the siding rods should be resorted to. The first butt should be placed where its distance from the edge of the basket is least. When the first rod has been worked to within an inch or so of its top, which is left outside, a second rod is laid in, not where the first finished, but in the next space to that in which the first butt was laid, or, in other words, the second butt will rest against the 20 next stake to the right of that against which the first butt rests, on the inside of basket as before. The top of the second rod will finish against the next stake to the right of that against which the top of the first rod finished, and so on. In this way all the stakes will be placed, and he will notice that the work is assuming a slanting form, and he may possibly think that he is going wrong. This is not so ; the slope is only tem- porary and when a complete rand has been worked the rounding will be quite straight. The stakes are now being driven into the ground, namely, being begun at opposite sides of the basket. It should be particularly noticed that the stakes are to remain upright, and that they are not allowed to fall out of them. This applies also to other kinds of siding. It is rendered much easier if the stakes are at least double the size of the randing rods, and this proportion should be observed throughout. If any one stake is driven too deep, the stakes must be so spaced, as a split stake will not stand up against the pressure of the randing-rod. When getting out the set of stakes all splint rods should be placed on one side for bottoming-out, or if too bad, dropped down into the water. All these stakes must be kept apart from one another and not allowed to become corrugated. A further point is the keeping of the stakes at correct distances one from another. It will be seen that this is very important in order to obtain a good result in nearly all stages of training; later much of the work is done subconsciously. The left thumb and forefinger will be continually in use, controlling the stake as the rod is worked upon it; this injunction applies to the other four fingers also. Often it will happen that the sides of a basket cannot be completed with exactly one or more rands. For example, it may be found that where a butt is placed in a certain position, and the iron at its highest point is deep enough. In this case, and in all other cases where the unevenness of depth is such that it cannot be put right with the beating iron, the rush is taken out of it by means of a new butt being laid in. And when the depth begins to fall below that required, a new butt is laid in. This is not worked out to its top (unless an extra short rod is used), but left when it reaches the point at which the work is again deep enough. Then it is worked back to its original position and laid back again. More rods are added if required, to bring the lower parts up to the correct depth, the iron being used in moderation to assist the leeching process. Close randing is worked in the same way as light randing, except that the iron is in continual use to close the work up quite tightly. Butler refers to "a basket hilt that would hold broth," and it is com- monly said that a basket hilt should have a good deal of water. Be this as it may, a piece of close randing certainly possesses remarkable strength and wear-resisting qualities. It is more difficult than light randing, but is rendered easier if the randing rods are proportionately 21 thinner, and the stakes set rather more closely together than in light ranging, these details being in keeping with the better quality work which is being produced. Prick ranging is similar to close ranging with the butt of each rodling rod slightly inclined to the right of the stake instead of being simply laid in said stake. **ROD RANGING.**—This is produced by carrying the ranging-rod in front of two stakes instead of one as in ordinary ranging. Each rod can be worked in this way throughout its whole length, passing alter- nately in front of two stakes and behind one, or a part only of each rod can be worked in this way, thus producing a kind of intermittent ranging. In the solid wood basket shown on p. 69, a spiral rib is formed by taking the butt of each successive ranging-rod in front of two stakes, behind one and in front of two again, and then working it out in the ordinary manner. This method can also be used with a metal rod, but also, by carrying the ranging rod behind two stakes instead of one. Rod-ringing can be either light or close, and the butts can be "pricked in" at intervals during ranging. **FRANCIS RANGING.**—This is shown in the Bread or Fruit Basket, illustrated on page 65, and has a more pleasing and regular appearance than ordinary ranging, but is more difficult, particularly as regards bringing the rods into position. The rods are carried alternately in front of two stakes, and are entirely different from that used in ordinary ranging, all the butts being at the bottom of the rod (it is sometimes started with tops), but the procedure is exactly the same as that described above, except that by laying the first butt behind a stake and carrying it in front of the next and behind the next as in ordinary ranging. The second butt is now laid in to the left of the first, worked one stroke, and then brought back to the right side of the first butt, and so on, in a similar way, each being worked one stroke and then dropped, the first one being lifted to allow the last one to be put in. The work is now continuous until all the rods have been worked. It is advisable to choose the one on the left one stroke, dropping that, so and on, ranging to the right, but working to the left in picking up each successive rod. This is continued until all rods have been worked. If the depth of the particular basket will allow, a second French range may be worked, or the remainder of sides completed with ordinary ranging. It is more usual, however, not to mix the two kinds. **PAIRING.—(See diagram 2.)** This is used mainly in round and oval bottoms, and consists of taking sides which are sometimes used in place of a top wal. The sides are laid in both ends and are sometimes used in place of a top wal. The sides are laid in both ends and are sometimes used in place of a top wal. The sides are laid in both ends and are sometimes used in place of a top wal. The sides are laid in both ends and are sometimes used in place of a top wal. Pairing is carried out by taking the left-hand rod of the two over the other, behind the stake, and to the front again, repeating this with each rod alternately. 23 Diagram 2. PAIRING. SLEWING.—This consists in working two or more rods together one above the other, before and behind alternate stakes. A two-rod slew is shown in the siding of the oval garden basket illustrated on frontispiece, and a three-rod slew by diagram 1 and the reproduction of the same in the text. The lower rod runs through the basket, and no more rods are used in the trade, but are rather too coarse for fine basket-work. Slewing is worked continuously round and round the sides of basket, and an odd number of stakes is employed. Two-rod slewing began with the lower rod laid in first, as was for running, and when this rod has been worked for half its length, a second rod is laid in above it, and the two worked together. When the lower rod runs out, its top is left on the outside of the basket, and a third butt is laid in above the other rod, Diagram 1. SLEWING (Three-Rod). between the same two stakes, to make up the two again. In a similar way a fourth butt is laid in when the second runs out, and so on. Three-rod slewing is begun in the same way, but a second butt is added about when one-third of the first rod has been worked, and a third butt at another point when one-half of it has been worked. "This gives the three rods, and the number is maintained by adding a butt above the others when a top finishes below." For making baskets of any size use a buff shopping basket on page 68. Either two or three rods may be used together as in ordinary slewing, these being worked in the same way as French running, except that two or three rods are treated as one in the working. In making baskets of large size, those made with proportion to the stakes, than those used for running, are desirable, as the pressure on the stakes of two or three rods is naturally greater than that of one rod, if these are equal. Slewed work is made to touch only, as it tight binding, and never closed. 23 Diagram 4. THREE-ROD WALE. WALING.—Three-rod waling is shown in diagram 4, and four-rod waling in diagram 5, and the former occurs in most of the examples illustrated. Five-rod and six-rod waling are occasionally used. Waling is worked by taking each rod in turn, and driving it into the stakes (except sometimes in the first round of upsetting) with top. It should always finish with the tops also, as to finish with butts would be likely to leave an unanswerable gap. The first rod is driven out of basket by the required number of rods in adjoining spaces, and then, with the last rod, carry it over the others, behind the stake against the front of which the right-hand rod lies, and out to the front again. This stroke is repeated throughout the length of the basket, until all the rods have been driven in. When the butts of the rods have been reached, new butts are inserted close alongside the old ones, the latter being left on outside and the new ones on inside. Wale-rods may be nearly as stout as the stakes. The wale can be produced on inside of basket by taking each rod in front of one stake and behind the next two (or three if a four-rod wale) or with four rods Diagram 5. FOUR-ROD WALING USED AS FIRST ROUND OF UPSETTING. the wale can be produced both inside and outside the basket by taking each rod in front of two stakes and behind the next two. UPSETTING.—This consists of a number of rounds of waling, but is called upsetting when it is done after the bottom of the sides where it is used to "set up" the stakes. The number of rounds of upsetting depends on the depth and quality of the basket, but should never be less than three. On a good basket, as shown in diagram 6, it will be found easier to begin the upsetting with tops although a stronger edge for the basket to stand upon results from starting with butts. In this case, after each round has been completed, put down the bottom by the sides of three or four adjoining stakes. The first round of upsetting on larger baskets is usually a four-rod one, one rod being dropped on the completion of the first round, and the remainder 24 of upsett worked with three rods. No piecing should be done in the first round, and if the rods are not long enough to go right round the basket to its full size to spare, it is advisable to begin two sets of wale- rods on opposite sides of the basket. If this is done, one set of wale-rods will be pushed into the other three by being pushed through alongside them. When the butts are reached three more butts would be pinned in and worked out to their tops. Or if the basket is too large for three rods, two sets of wale-rods could be pieced in when the butts are reached. On the completion of the upsett it should be well closed down with the iron before the siding is begun, so that no undue pressure is put upon the stakes, which do not go in too much, and it is in the second round that this tendency is most apparent. The reason for this is that the first round is worked well in between the stakes and the ends of the bottom sticks so that it takes up a diagonal position, and then in the second round it is worked outwards against the staves, a pull outwards against the staves. In all cases, therefore, the second round should be worked more inwards than would appear to be necessary at first sight. The reason for this is that in the first round, the second round of the upsett must be used to force the stakes inwards, otherwise the upset will bulge. In flowed baskets the completed upsett should leave the stakes exactly as they were when it was actually required. The second round will always bring the baskets to a larger size at top than would be anticipated. The hoop should not be relied on to counteract this tendency. Its office is simply to hold the stakes temp- orarily until they have been driven home by means of a hammer. Nor is the practice of tying the stakes together in a bunch in order to secure curved or barrelled sides to be recommended. The stakes should in every case be driven home with sufficient force to make them rigid, so that they can then bring them out or in, either at an angle or in a graceful curve, solely by attention to each stroke in the side, controlling the stake as the rod is being worked by means of the left thumb and forefinger. After driving home each stake it should be given a light blow with a hammer as required, by bending it with the hand, the idea being to make the skeleton or framework of the basket assume as early as possible its uniform shape. **Fitching.—This is the term for openwork in basketry, and is accomplished by working two rods as a fitch to secure the stakes in position above the open part. The fitch itself is essentially the same in all its parts as a stake except that it has no head and no cross bar; it consists only of two rods crossed at right angles to each other, and secured together by changing the number and positions of the stakes and bye-stakes, and by varying the manner in which they are crossed. The two main kinds of fitching are straight fitching and cross fitching. A diagram illustrating 6 illustrates a pleasing combination of straight fitching and cross fitching. The fitch is usually begun by placing the tops of two rods of equal size and length, together and looping them over a stake as shown 25 Diagram 6. FITCHING. Diagram 7. in diagram 8. In working the fitch, the rod fastens from the worker is grasped with the right hand and brought over the other rod towards him, this other rod being held between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, the palm of the hand uppermost, the rods changing from hand to hand as they are brought into position. To keep them as nearly as possible level, the stakes being brought into position between the two rods with the right hand. Fitching proper should not be attempted by the inexperienced, but should be left to those who have some skill of weaving, but the kind of fitching shown in diagram 6 can be introduced into the siding of a ranned or slewed basket without much difficulty. The fitch-rod is generally made of wood, and is about three times as thick as each double turn is taken between each two stakes. The question as to whether this is necessary depends entirely on the thickness of the fitch-rod and the distance apart of the stakes. The size of the fitch-rods is generally greater than the size of the stakes, but in some cases the space of the stakes varies not only as between one basket and another, but also in the top and bottom of the same basket. When the butts of the first row of stakes are pulled well up into position, then a second row is put in the manner shown in diagram 9, the old butt being pulled well to the left as the other is brought down into position. In a Jack Fitch a single turn is made round each stake, but when a double turn is used, after completing the two rods may be worked out as a pair, or they may be converted into a wale by the addition of a third rod. Diagram 8. BORDERS AND HANDLES. BORDERS.--The main kinds of borders are the Track or Trac, the Plain, the Plait, and the Rope. Many kinds of borders have been 26 introduced into cane work, and have been provided with names to suit the fancies of the originators, but they will be found on analysis to be variations and combinations of these four. The Scallop or Open-work border may, perhaps, be regarded as a fifth type, but has not been included here, for, in the opinion of the writer, it is "pretty" rather than artistic. It is a very useful border, but one which is too thin (which is less suitable for this type of border than canes) which could, it is thought, be better expended in the production of something more finished. In all cases where a border is used, the material must be strong enough to withstand wear. A glance at any book on cane-work will quickly show how this border is done, for it is quite simple in construction. Diagram 10. SIMPLE TRACK BORDER. Track Borders.—A great many variations are possible in this type of border, one of its simplest forms being shown in diagram 10. This border was used for the little blackberry basket illustrated on frontispiece. It consists of two rows of stakes placed parallel to each other, one inch above the waling, bringing the first down behind the second, in front of the next two, and leaving it behind the fifth. This is repeated with each stake in succession, the last one or two being threaded into position to complete the row. The next row is worked in exactly the same way as in the track border each stake is brought down in turn, worked for the requisite number of strokes, and then finished with one in position ; when completed each stake in order each stake is picked up more than once before its work is completed. Diagram 11. ANOTHER TRACK BORDER. Diagram 11 shows a track border somewhat more complex than that foregoing. In this instance each stake is taken in front of the next two, behind one, and in front of two again, the end being left inside as before. In working track borders in which the end is left inside, it is a good 27 plan to cut off each end as it is finished with, care being taken to leave it just long enough to rest against the stake. In beginning this border, five or six stakes should be kinked down at the correct height, this being done by placing the stake on the ground and then giving it a twist; the border is well begun the remaining stakes are kinked over the preceding stroke, each stake being given a half turn or twist so as to prevent it cracking. The kinking of the first few stakes is accomplished by inserting a rod about the size of a matchstick into the stake and giving the knife a half turn as the stake is brought down. The track border shown in diagram 11 was used in the round shopping basket illustration. Diagram 12 shows the track border in diagram 10 worked with doubled stakes. Any kind of track border can be similarly treated, all the stakes being previously doubled by inserting a rod of about the same size by the side of each. **Diagram 12. Track Border with Double Stakes.** **Plain Borders.—These comprise the Two-Rod, Three-Rod, Four-Rod, and Five-Rod, a Six-Rod being used occasionally. In each case the stake can be brought down behind either one stake or two stakes, the resulting borders being called single and double respectively. The two-rod forms can best be described as follows, by adding "behind-one" or "behind-two" as the case may be, e.g., a "four-rod-behind-two" border. "Pair" is sometimes used instead of "four," but this is not necessary. It will be seen that in describing the working of "behind-one" and "behind-two" borders lies in the initial bringing down of the stakes. For example, the "three-rod behind-two" border illustrated on page 65 would have been a "three-rod-behind-two" border if the first three stakes had each been brought down behind another stake, but since they were brought down behind themselves, it would have been a "four-rod-behind-two" border shown in diagram 14 and used in the circle-ranged panel illustrated on page 66, would have been a "four-rod-behind-one" border if the beginning had been arranged so that the first four stakes came down behind one stake instead of behind two. **Two-Rod Plain Border.—This has been applied to the ends of the picnic basket lid shown on page 66, for which purpose it is very suitable; but it is not often used to border off the sides of a basket.** 28 unless it is a very small one. In the case of a basket, it is begun by bringing down any two stakes each behind the next one or two stakes. Calling these stakes Nos. 1 and 3 respectively, and the next ones on them Nos. 2 and 4, the first stake to be brought down, and the last stake to be worked, proceed as follows : Carry No. 1 in front of No. 3, behind No. 4, and to the front. Then bring down No. 3 (first giving it a light blow with the iron) in front of No. 5, behind No. 4, and to the front, No. 4 and to the front, side by side and close to No. 5. Now take No. 2 in front of No. 4, behind No. 5, and to the front, and bring down No. 4 again in front of No. 2, behind No. 5, and to the front, and so continue by taking the right-hand rod of the left-hand pair each time and working it as described for the first two rods. The left-hand rod of each pair is left to be cut off later, its work having been completed. When the work reaches the end of the stakes, it is finished by taking out the stakes as follows : Bring the right-hand rod of the left-hand pair in front of this stake and thread it through to the front under the kink of No. 1 stake. Then bring down this rod again in front of No. 2 stake, thus placing it so that it lies alongside and to the right of the first rod. This gives two pairs once again. Take the right-hand rod of the left- hand pair in front of the stake against which it rests and kink it at right angles to itself by means of a light blow with the iron ; then draw out an inch from the kink, and insert the slype down into the basket to the left of the stake, driving it down with a light tap or two with the iron. Then bring down this rod again in front of No. 3 stake in a similar manner to the left of the next stake, thus completing the border by the method known as "cramming off" to distinguish it from "drawing off", the method used with the more pliable cane which is drawn through to its full length before being inserted into the basket ; but here only a two- rod border on a small basket before proceeding to the other plain borders ; underlying principle is the same for all, and if the two-rod border is mastered the others will present little or no difficulty. Diagram 13. THREE-ROD-BEHIND-ONE PLAIN BORDER. THREE-ROD BORDER.—This is begun by bringing down three stakes either behind the next one or the next two stakes. Diagram 13 shows a three-rod border in which the stakes are brought down behind one side-stake and in front of another side-stake, except that each stroke in front is longer, and there is an additional cram at the finish. The right-hand rod of the left-hand pair is taken each time, the other rod being left as before. 29 In a round basket the border can be begun anywhere except when some form of fastening or design has been worked into the front of the basket. If a lid is to be provided the border will be begun at the opposite side of the basket, but if the basket is intended to have two small handles on the border. In both and all cases, however, and indeed in all cases where something is to be added to the border, it should be begun at a place which will later be partly covered by the handle, if any, or whatever else is added. Diagram 14. Four-Rod-Behind-Two Plain Border. Four-rod and five-rod borders—Four-rod borders are shown in diagram 14 and in the round white bread basket, page 66, and the picnic basket, page 66. Five-rod borders have been worked on the inside of the round white bread basket, page 66, and on the four-rod and three-rod borders are mastered, and a little thought is given to the small modifications made necessary by the increased number of rods in use, no difficulty will be experienced in these, either behind one or behind two rods. The first rod is less likely to work loose than the second, the first strokes should not be worked tightly, but looped out some-what to leave room for the finishing cram. Both behind-one and behind-two rods should be worked with equal care and attention. Plain Border.—The accompanying diagrams clearly show how one of the simpler forms of plain border is accomplished, this border being used for baskets that are not too large. The number of rods used in making this border can be varied by having three rods together instead of two by increasing the number of pairs, or threes, used, and by varying the relative number of stakes before and behind which the pair (or three) passes, e.g., in a simple case where only one pair is used, one stake may be made to pass in front of one stake instead of two, and behind two stakes instead of one. This illustrates how borders with a greater number of rods can be varied, and is not recommended for use as a practical border. For the border illustrated, two short butts are used as temporary pegs, one butt being placed on each side of the stake to be passed over and brought into position by pulling it back towards its original position. The other butt is placed on top of the stake to be passed over and brought into position by pulling it forward towards its original position. The second peg in the next space, bring down number two stake over it and add a second rod as before. Of the two pairs thus formed take the left- 30 A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 FIG.1 FIG.2 FIG.3 FIG.4 FIG.5 Diagram 11. DRYAD hand one over the other, in front of number three stake and leave it on the inside. Bring down number three stake to the front and add a rod as shown in FIG.1, making two pairs necessary for the border, two being now at the front and one at the back. The remainder of the border is a repetition of the following strokes : Take the left-hand pair of the two in front over the right- hand pair of the two behind and bring it to the front on the outside of the stake, leaving it there. Bring down the stake over this pair to the front and then take the left-hand pair of the two at the back and bring it to the front on the outside of the stake, leaving it there also. Bring down the stake over this pair and the left-hand rod of the three is now finished with, the two on the left of it being taken in turn. This, it should be noted, is the reverse to the method adopted in a plain border where the left-hand rod is dropped each time. To finish the border remove the pegs and thread the two pairs in 31
D C B A 1 2 3 4 5 6
Diagram 16.
DRYAD
f1s.6
f1g.7
f1g.8
f1g.9
f1g.10
from through to the back in their proper positions to correspond with the remainder as shown in Fig. 8. The butts of the extra rods are now threaded through to the front as shown in Fig. 9, and the border completed by threading the right-hand rod of each pair through to the front of the border, and then threading the left-hand rod of each pair through to the back of the border. The method of beginning a plain border in willow is to double the first three stakes by pushing down a rod by the side of each instead of laying it there. The border is then made up in the same way as that corresponding to Fig. 8 is reached, the three pairs being on the inside or back of the botter. These are then taken in turn and threaded through to the front as shown in Fig. 10, and then through to the stakes at the bottom. The objection to this method is that it gives an additional rod in the width of the border, making it wider at this spot than elsewhere. The Rose Border.—This is simple in construction, and the only 32 variation is obtained by inserting more extra rods at the beginning which give a thicker twist. The simplest and smallest rope border is shown on the oval shopping basket illustrated on frontispiece and this is begun by inserting two rods into each of the four adjoining stakes. These two rods forming the left-hand pair are then brought down to the twisted, twisted upon themselves in the reverse direction to that employed in turning home a screw, and taken through to the inside between the two outermost stakes, and so on until all four are left for the time being. The other pair is now treated in a similar manner, being taken through between the first and second single stake, and then twisted together with the first pair. Then one rod is put to the front on the right of the first upright stake, which is brought down and twisted with them, the three-rod twist being taken through to the back as before. The other pair is treated in similar fashion so that there are now four rods in position, two of which are left for the time being. The fourth dropped, the remaining two being brought forward and twisted with the stake to form another three, the whole of the border being simply a rectangle of rope. In order to make a border of any desired width, a neat finish is made by threading the last pair through under the first double stake, and then threading one rod of each of the two threes into position in the double twists with which the border was begun. A handle is next inserted in each of the four corners of the tray illustrated on frontispiece. The "four-round-behind-one" border was worked in the ordinary way except that instead of being crammed off with a single twist, each rod was passed over and under itself several times to form a simple trick, each rod being brought out at right angles to the border, taken over the next two, under the next, over the next, and its end left underneath. Handles are of two main kinds—Cross Handles and Small Handles—a sub-division being roped and lapped. Lapped handles are treated of in the section devoted to skew work. Roped Cross handles may be made as follows: TWISTED-ROOF CROSS HANDLES.—A handle of this description will be seen on the blackberry basket illustrated on frontispiece. Twisted-roof handles are generally stronger than lapped ones but they need handles, but have not such a neat and regular appearance. This is due to the disparity in thickness of the butt and top ends of the rods, each of which does two journeys across the bow, whereas in the whole-rod handle only one journey is made. A good method of making a stout willow rod is first placed across the basket by inserting its slyped ends at either side or at either end. If a very stout bow is used, or two or three rods are inserted at once, it will be found that one end of each rod of the basket by treating two stakes as one in siding and pieces of rod are inserted temporarily to keep the two stakes apart. The left -hand stake of each two is not bordered down like the remainder, but is passed by 33 when the border is worked and cut off later. "Bow-marks" were made in the oval buff shopping basket shown on frontispiece. The usual method of inserting the bow is to slype and insert the thicker end first, then bend the bow to the required curve with the right hand followed up by the left hand, which holds the basket steady. The proper posi- tion on outside of basket, slype the bow accordingly, and push it down into basket. But if several baskets of the same kind are being made it is a good plan to have one man working at each time. In these baskets, hold each by tying a string or twisted rod across its ends, and hang the whole up till required. As they dry become set in position and lose their elasticity, and are in consequence less liable to pull the basket out of shape. Having inserted the bow, select four sound rods free from side shots, and long enough to run across the basket with a little spare, and put them in two holes alongside the border. The rod end is close to it, two on either side of basket. The rod root of one of the pairs is now twirled throughout its length. The twisting of a rod is quite as easy as that of a stick, but requires more dexterity and proficiency is attained. Twisting is begun at the top of a rod, the basket being held meanwhile between the feet or knees to prevent it turning over. With the left hand grasp the rod by its middle, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, the left hand holding the rod a little lower down. If the rod is very small, twining can be continued right down to its end. If it is larger than this, twist it round a larger rod or handle, in order to obtain a better purchase, to form the twisted tip into a sort of crank and turn it so one would the handle of a gramophone. In either case after twisting an inch or two the hands are moved forward until the rod has been twisted through 360° no unwiat again temporally. When the rod is being worked, the part of it required for the stroke in hand is revisited before being worked. Having thus twisted one pair of rods, take another pair and twist it four or five times round the bow, then take it through under the border from the outside and on the left of the bow, on the opposite side of the basket (see illustration). Then twist this pair also round twice, when the basket is twirled and taken over to the other side in a similar way, keeping each stroke close to the corresponding one of the first rod. The other two rods are similarly dealt with in turn, and then each of them is twisted once round both sides of basket. This completes just above the border, cut off, or to give a neater finish they may be taken through under the border and worked along the safe for one or two strokes. **Whole-Rod Cross Handle.** This is shown on the round shopping basket illustrated on page 68, and is worked as follows : Select six or eight rods according to the size of the handle and rods, long enough to go once across the bow with six or eight inches to spare, and insert 34 three or four close against the bow, beginning on its left with the first rod and adding the others in the direction of the inside of the basket close to each other and also to the bow. Do the same with the other three rods, but twist them in the opposite direction (see page 66). At this time (or if this be found too difficult, one rod at a time), coil them four or five times round the bow, keeping each set of rods together. To finish the handle the rods are twisted together in pairs, one pair being twisted to the right and the other under the border to the inside on the left of the bow, round over the top of the border on the same side, and then through under the border on the right, where they are twisted together again and finally tied off. TWISTED SINGLE-ROD SMALL HANDLE.—Small handles can be placed either on the border or below it. Small handles below the border are put on by twisting them round the outside of the basket, which is constructed in the same way as the handles on the border about to be described, the main difference being that the handle under the border is at right angles to the side of the basket, whereas the handle on the border is parallel with it. The method of making these handles is given on page 66. For a single-rod handle, a rod long enough to go three times across the handle is slayed and pushed into the border at its point of attachment. The handle is then inserted in such a way that when it is worked it will be held firmly by both hands. The rod is then twisted round and round in a clockwise direction until it has been wound round twice. This is done by holding one end of the rod in each hand and working it round and round in a clockwise direction. The rod is then taken out of position and another rod is inserted in its place. This process is repeated until all three rods have been twisted round and round in a clockwise direction. The method of making a double-rod handle is similar to that of making a single-rod handle. A rod long enough to go three times across the handle is slayed and pushed into the border at its point of attachment. The handle is then inserted in such a way that when it is worked it will be held firmly by both hands. The rod is then twisted round and round in a clockwise direction until it has been wound round twice. This is done by holding one end of the rod in each hand and working it round and round in a clockwise direction. The rod is then taken out of position and another rod is inserted in its place. This process is repeated until all three rods have been twisted round and round in a clockwise direction. The term "cored" is used where two rods are twisted together in a regular twist without a bow. "Roped" is used where the strands are twined round a rigid bow. Twisted double-rod handles are made by taking two rods, one being inserted on the left and the other on the right. The left-hand rod is taken over to the right and through under the border, while the right-hand rod is taken over to the left and through under the border. The two rods are then twisted together to form a rigid bow round which they are roped. The right-hand rod is now twisted and taken three times round the other, then taken through from the outside and worked back again, 35 to be taken through under the border immediately to the left of the bow-rod. The latter is now twisted, worked across to the left, taken under the border on the left of the other rod, worked across to the right again and so on until all the rods have been twisted and worked through. The one which was temporarily dropped, is now worked across to the left and drawn through just above the border also. If there are gaps in the handle, one or both of these ends may be worked across to opposite side where they are secured by a single stitch. This is done with one or two strokes or through under the border and worked along the side for one or two strokes. One or two other kinds of handles are occasionally met with, such as the rope handle which is similar to a rope border, and the plated handle worked either with three or more pairs of rods, or nine or more single rods. The drop handle consists of a rigid D-shaped bow lapped with skims, and attached to the basket by two loose hinges. **SKELN WORK.** Skims, which are thin strips of split wood, are easy to work, and their use in combination with rods is to be recommended to the beginner, particularly one whose hands are not hard enough and strong enough to stand the strain of working whole rods throughout. Even when used singly they will often prove stronger and harder as the result of use, skims will still retain their proper, though subordinate, place in the general scheme, and they can be employed to a relatively greater extent by those whose hands never burdened with heavy work. Those who do not thoroughly master the making of baskets entirely with rods. Skims, either white or buff (brown is not used for this purpose as the outer skin perishes too quickly), are cut and prepared from brown skims. They are bought ready-made, or may be made by the worker. The operation of skim-making is not a particularly easy one, but difficulties are reduced to a minimum if suitable rods are used, and also if the skims are cut at right angles to them. This is very simple. Rods for skim-making should not be less than five feet long, free from side shots, scabs, or "bubbles," straight grained, and not brittle. These rods must be soaked in water for several hours before being used up by skims, but they are absolutely indispensable for easy skim-making. For making skims the rods are used dry, but if the available rods are not quite stiff they need only a short period of soaking and mellowing under a cloth as an hour is adequate. CLEAVING.—This is begun at the top of the rod, about six inches of which is cut off first. Cuts are then made with the hand-knife to accommodate the cleave which is pressed along the rod with the right hand, spaces being left between the fingers to allow the clefs to pass. The 36 rod is held a little lower down by the left hand which is moved down- wards as the cleaving proceeds. The process is one of rendering or splitting, not cutting, and the cleave must be guided right to ensure the proper direction of the cut. The pressure applied by the left hand exerts extra pressure against the deft which shows signs of becoming larger than the others ; this will result in reducing its size and making the three equal. Sawing.—The ordinary method is to sit with the shave grasped in the left hand resting against the left knee and to draw the clefts through the shave with the right hand ; the left thumb (protected by a thick cloth) being placed on the upper side of the table to give guidance. This time-honoured method is quite satisfactory except for the strain imposed on the left arm and left knee, and the alternative of fixing the shave in a vice is suggested. A vice is not always available, but it has been adopted by many workers. This can be accomplished by means of two small angle-irons screwed to table top and right-hand side of the shave, which must have its left fork flush with edge of the table and its rear corner at right angles to that of the other thumb-iron. The vice is finished. To make room for fixing the shave in this manner, one of the wooden fences at the end of the table would be about nine inches short of the table top, and a second fence would be fixed at right angles to it, and fixed in line with the long side of the table at this corner. The clefts are drawn through the shelve, pith side uppermost, in two movements ; first grasping the cleft with both hands and drawing it over the butt end then reversing the cleft and drawing it back again so that only the other part holding the butt end which has already been shaved. For ordinary purposes each cleft will be drawn through the shave twice, the other half being shaved off after it has been drawn through once more. If very thin skins are required, or the clefts are extra thick three or four times may be necessary. To save time all the clefts should be drawn through together. Uprighting.—For most skin work the skims can be used after being shaved, but for listing and extra fine skin work of other kinds they are made uniform in width and as narrow as required by being drawn through a special uprighting machine. The uprighting machine is carefully set at exactly the same angle ; and the skim, which is drawn through with the right hand and held down with the left thumb as in shaving, is then carried around gradually until it is upright. The top of the skim which is uppermost is placed between the knives, and the uprighting is completed in one operation by drawing it through to the butt. References to the butt or top of a skim in the following pages refer to those parts of them which have been uprighted, as both ends of these are alike. Skim work proper is of two kinds, Flat-skim work and Edge-skim work. The former used to be largely practised in this country, but has 37 now died out owing to competition from the Continent. A good example is the French plate basket, thousands of which are sold in this country every year. If one of these baskets be examined it will be seen that they are made by cutting apart a single piece of working wood, which takes considerable time and skill, and one which is therefore practically possible only where cheap labour is available. Apart from its use for forming the slaths of round and oval bottoms and lids, the worker will be well paid for making them, as they are used in the shops for occasional and special jobs. **SKEIN SLATH FOR ROUND BOTTOM or Lid.**—We now begin actual working on the slath. The student will get best results by studying them with the work in hand; indeed, a great part of them will simply bewilder him unless he does this. Another aid to the understanding of those who have not had any practical experience (and less effective than oral tuition) is to examine every specimen of basketry that one comes across; the household clothes basket, for example, is a splendid elementary object lesson in the art of basket-making on traditional lines. The following diagram shows how to make a small round practice basket and make some skeins (skeins can be used if desired for the slaths of the bottoms of the small examples described later just as well as for the larger ones). The rods are made from ends of six of the stouter rods, two inches longer than the diameter of the bottom it is proposed to make. Pierce three of these in their centres with three holes about an inch apart, so that when they are bent to form a cross as shown in diagram 18. Now insert the top of a skein in the split to the left of one of the three, pass it in front of this three, behind the next three, in front of the next, and behind the next. The skein is then passed over and under each rod in turn, forward and again at the back, returning to the point from which the diagonal strokes started. It is now taken to the left over the first three, behind the next three, forward over the second three, and again at the back. This is repeated until all four diagonals have been worked. The skein is then formed at right angles to the first by carrying the skein over to the opposite corner, then across again at the back forming another diagonal stroke. When all four diagonals have been completed (see "in" part of the slath is completed by taking the skein behind the three to its left which gives a cross within a square both in front and at the back (see diagram 17). All round and oval bottoms are made slightly convex or concave according to whether they are to be used on one side or towards somewhat towards the worker as the work proceeds, that side of the bottom which is now towards the worker being underneath in the finished product. The ribbing is worked after all other parts have been worked on both sides of it. The "ribbing" side of the bottom, and on this side the ribbing which is now to be worked will appear. The next stage of the work is the "opening out" of the sticks, which, in the present bottom, is begun by taking the skein through to the back 38 on the right of the left-hand stick of the first three, this stick being pulled to the left two times from the other two. The third row goes behind the first two sticks and to the front, the opening made to lie flatly as possible, and the other three groups of three are opened out in the same way into ones and twos. Before proceeding to the second round, it is necessary to pass the skin through all the holes (with all members), to pass the skin in front of two sticks, once only, so that in the next round each stroke will pass behind a different two sticks, thus opening out all the sticks singly and forming ribbing on the "right" side of the work. In this way, after passing through all the skins in front of two sticks once, the remainder of the work being a repetition of the "in front of one and behind two" stroke. Diagram 17 shows the result when this method has been used. It will be seen that all the sticks have been opened out, after which the skin ribbing can be continued for part or the whole of the remainder of bottom or lid, or a pair of rods may have been inserted on the left of two adjoining sticks and the skin worked or lid considered with pairs. In working in additional rods or skims in a round or oval bottom, the method shown in diagram 19 is recommended, butts being pinned to butts, and tops to tops, so that they may be worked together without any space placed in adjoining spaces. Instead of completing the bottom or lid with pairing or flat-skin work, it can be done with skims worked edge to edge as in siding, these being worked either as ordinary randing or to form ribbing as at the beginning. Diagram 17. Diagram 18. Oval bottoms or lids can also be "tired in" and "opened out" with skims in a similar way to that just described for round bottoms or lids. The method of setting out the bottom sticks is given in the instructions relating to the oval garden basket, see frontispiece. *Encore* Shanty-Woody. This is shown in the siding of the baby's or work-basket, illustrated on page 67, and, as the name implies, consists 39 in working the skeins edge to edge thus getting over the ground much more quickly and using much less time. Lapping, though of course, the work is inferior in quality to the flat-skein work. In placing in a new skeleton, the skeins of the old skein are worked together for two strokes, the new end lying flat against the other, and in front of it so that the two occur at right angles. The skein does one skein. The end of the new skein will be left on the front of the work and the old end at the back, both being cut off close when the balance is reached. This method with skeins which do not possess a good inside appearance so that this method is best suited to lined baskets or those in which the inside is not exposed to view. **Diagram 19.** **SKEIN LAPPING OR WRAPPING.** -Lapping is one of the principal ways in which skeins are used, their flatness and thinness making them very suitable for this purpose, the thinner the skein the more easy the work. Lapping is employed in making all kinds of wooden furniture; harps, nooses, and bars on picnic baskets, and for handles as described below. Lapping on frames (see page 61) is begun as shown in diagram 20, a quarter-of-an-inch or half-inch fine nail being used to secure each skein to its frame. The first stroke is made by passing over the right, the skein passing over the top of the frame away from the worker, the right hand being used to manipulate the skein while the left thumb is placed under it to keep it in position. Diagrams 21 and 22 show the end being bound in with the lapping, and diagrams 23 and 24 show the method of piecing in a new skein, which is accomplished as fully described on page 61. The worker then takes up his new skein and lays it along the frame cut side outwards, and proceeds to wrap this in until about two inches only of the old skein remains. Holding this in the right hand and the new skein in the left, turn the two skeins so that they lie parallel with each other, and proceed with centre-lapping, and the old end lies along the frame, cut side outwards, to be covered when the lapping is continued. To finish off, the end is passed under each other's arm and laid down on either side of the two parts cross, and the end is cut off close. Beginnings and endings should be made as far as possible in places where they will be least noticeable, such as under seats or behind cushions or legs. All joints should come on the inside of the work. Lapping with skeins is performed in precisely the same way as with centre lapping case, and for fuller information on the subject the reader is referred to the excellent book "Case Work on Simple Frames," by Charles Crompton 40 Diagram 20. Diagram 21. Diagram 22. Diagram 23. (Dryad Press). Leaders, as described below, can be introduced into any lapped handle. SKINNED HANDLES—All skin handles have a bow or bows, the lapping being done in the manner described above except for the beginnings and endings. It is usual to have at least two bows side by side for a lapped cross handle, and three side by side are often used, either with or without a middle bow. The ends of the bows are made two thinner ones on either side. This is very suitable for listed handles. A single bow is sufficient for small lapped handles. If two bows are used they should be placed one above the other on each side of either side. The two or three bows can be inserted into the border apart from one another and the lapping begun and finished at a point some distance above the border, as shown in diagrams 22 and 23, page 17 "Carpentry". In this case the lapping is commenced by sawing and finishing are carried out as follows : To begin, pass the butt of a skinn up between the bows from underneath at the point where it is required to lap. Then draw the butt through the uppermost bow without including the butt, and then bring the butt down over these two laps with its right side uppermost and proceed to lap over it. When the finishing point has been reached, point the skinn with a long taper, both sides of which are cut to fit the under side of the bow. Pass through a hole previously made with the bodkin between the second and third laps so that both sides of the handle will be alike. The hole should be made in such a way that it will not interfere with the passage of a skinn between two laps on the underside. When the skinn has been drawn through, it is cut off close. To begin a lapped handle in which the bows are close together, take a skinn from beneath one bow and pass it round to the butt of a skinn to the right of the bows, take its other end through under the border on the left, up over the border to the front on the 41 same side, then under the border to the inside on the right of the bows and up over the border on this side ready to begin the lapping. This forms a cross on the outside of the basket. To finish the handle on this opposite side, a similar cross is made and the end of the skein worked along under the border to secure it. DRYAD Diagram 24. FRONT VIEWS SIDE VIEWS Diagram 25. **LADIES.--These are shown on all the lapped handles illustrated, their main function being to introduce pattern as a relief from the plain lapping. They can also be made to perform a useful secondary office, that of holding the handle securely to the basket. For this purpose the butt end of the leader-rod (which is cut at an angle) is passed through a very suitable for forming pattern) is cut to a long tongue as in scalomilling. This tongue is then pushed up between the waling and the bows, cut side outwards, and then drawn back into its place, thus forming a secure loop round the waling and the border. Plain lapping is then worked for a distance of at least two inches, after which the leader or leaders can be used to form a pattern by passing the lapping rod through the loops formed by the leader-rod, which is about two inches of the other side, the leader-rod is cut to a long tongue as before, which is pushed up between the wale and the bows as at the beginning, the tongue being securely lapped in. The other method of securing a lapped handle is by means of pegging, the peg, 42 which is simply a piece of butt-end, being driven through the centre of the bow either at right angles to the side, i.e., from front to rear, or sideways, passing through both stake and bow or bows if desired. In this case, however, the stake must be being taken into not to split the bow or the peg is practically useless. It is advisable to secure a lapped handle either with the leader or by pegging, or both methods can be used in the same handle. Reference to diagram 23, and to the accompanying illustration will show how this simple pattern is produced by passing the lapping-skein alternately over and under the leaders. The student will see at once that this method is practicable. One, two, three, or more leaders, either skeins or rods, can be used, and the lapping can pass over or under all the leaders at once, or under one and over another, thus forming a single lap. Diamonds, cheques, and other interesting patterns can be used singly or in combination, and although many different styles of handles, variety of colour can be introduced as well. Diagram 24 and 25 show small lapped handles. These are a single bolt rod at each end and finished in a manner that varies only slightly from that adopted in the case of the larger handles across the basket. Small lapped handles are used on the linen basket, page 69. Laycock.--This is a method of adding a raised form of ornamentation to a lapped handle by the use of additional skeins. Additional skeins called listing-skeins, when worked round a single whole-rod leader. In all listed handles, when the first section of plain lapping just over the border has been worked, the lapping-skein is taken once over each leader and then under each leader. When this has been placed under the leader each time the lapping-skein goes under it. Diagram 26 shows a simple listed handle employing three listing-skeins. This type of handle is shown in full size on page 70 of the linen basket illustrated on frontispiece. After the section of plain lapping has been worked, the lapping-skein is taken under the leader and the first listing-skein inserted on the right-hand side. A lap is now taken over the leading edge of this second section of lapping and similarly inserted, and so with the third. The process is then continued by lapping once over the leader, once under it, then carrying the bottom listing-skein up to meet it and taking it over again. This is repeated most, placing it immediately above the last lap and underneath the leader. When the plain lapping is to be resumed on other side of the handle, each listing-skein is in turn cut off and bound in with 43 Diagram 27. lapping so that both sides of the handle are exactly alike. Four or more listing-skeins can be used and half the number can be worked from one side and half from the other to form a herring-bone pattern as shown in diagram 27 when eight skeins have been used. The leader on any handle of 6 (and usually, but seldom after it has been lapped (over and under the leader alternately) spaces being made under the leader with the bodkin to enable the listing-skeins to be drawn through. Listing is also shown on the small handle in diagram 24. ROUND WORK. As previously indicated, round work is on the whole the simplest, although it includes many difficulties, and at the same time, important, process of opening out the slath. It is important that the slath be opened out correctly as the spacing of the bottom-sticks not only largely determines the shape of the basket, but also largely determines the spacing of the stakes, which, in turn, largely determines the ultimate shape of the basket. If an instructor is available he will do this and the other more difficult parts in the first few baskets, otherwise the 44 beginner is recommended to use wooden bottoms or bases for the first few attempts, the construction of baskets upon these being carried out on similar lines to those detailed for the tray (frontispiece). But if the beginner turns his attention to basket-making altogether as the kind of "forty-five matter," unless absolutely necessary he is recommended to use skeins for the first few slaths as described on page 38. Before beginning the actual making of a piece of work, the cutting up of the skeins into suitable lengths (the length of each rod for each part of the basket) should be carefully attended to. If two or more articles of the same kind are to be made, time will be saved and more articles produced by cutting up one skein at a time, applied to any sort of basket-making material for the total number to be cut out in one operation. This preliminary preparation is necessary for all kinds of work, but will be described now as it applies to the making of the basket illustrated in Diagram 20, which is shown in full size. Having soaked some two feet to three feet white and some brown of a smaller size (or white only can be used) and allowed this to lie under water until thoroughly soft, take a bundle of rods from the bottom and, with the remainder of the table-top clear and a hand-knife in the right hand, proceed to pick up the rods one by one with the left hand and deal with each according to the purpose for which it is sent, thus avoiding the waste of rods that might otherwise be lost. Take one rod at a time and for some particular purpose. The brown can be left on one side for the present. From the butt ends of five of the stoutest rods, bottom-sticks are cut off about six inches long, and these are then put together by being slayed for stakes. The bottom-sticks can be cut off with the shears if desired, but the slaying of the stakes is done with hand-knife, taking care that they are placed so as to face towards the maker. Diagram 28 shows the slype, which is made by two rods on one on the face of the rod, and one either on the left or right. The first cut can be made either on the convex or the concave side of the rod. The five bottom-sticks are then taken from their bundles and either to have fifteen others added to them as and when suitable rods are taken from the bundle, each being slayed before being placed with the other four, or else they may be taken from their bundles and the handle are laid in separate places, to be tied together when the whole of the bundle has been distributed. Such an elaborate process of sub-division as that indicated is hardly necessary in the present instance, but it is advisable to make a careful selection of rods before commencing any cutting out, adapting the sub-division according to the requirements of the basket or number of baskets of the same kind in hand. To begin with, take two rods from each bundle, placing two of the bottom-sticks in their centres, and threading the other three through them, after which the slath can be formed either with skeins as described on page 38, or with rods as follows : Select two thin rods 45 of the same size and length, and insert both tops (from which a little may be cut) into the split on the left of the group of three, and work round through the holes by the method of pairing as de- scribed on page 22. This and the remaining operations is performed with the work resting on the lap. With the four sticks thus opened out, the groups of two into singles and the three into pairs begin. Begin the separation of each group by taking the rod right down into position behind the groups as though the previous working were to be continued, and hold it there with the left forefinger. Repeat this operation with all the other groups until it to the front. Separate the sticks with this hand and placing it between them bring the rod through to the front, then, and not until then, release it from its position behind. The rod must be placed so that the pairing will be close to the preceding strokes, and the sticks evenly opened out, but the worker need not be discouraged if he fails in this part of his work. A few attempts, as it is one of the most difficult operations in basketry. With the next and fifth round, the two are opened out so that all the sticks are separated, and the remainder of the bottom consists of pairing rods. In this case, when two pairs have been worked through, the butts of the first pair are reached, two more butts are picked to them in adjoining spaces by pushing the new butt through on the left of the old one to which it is applied. The process is repeated applied to randings. In the present basket, the brown stuff is now brought into use, and the remainder of the bottom filled out with it. The completed basket is shown in diagram 29. The second pair have been worked to within a couple of inches or so of their tops, two more tops are pieced to them in the same way as for the butts, i.e., "butt to butt" and "top to top," merely being connected by a short piece of stuff. Pairing is continued, brown stuff being used, till the bottom is four inches in diameter, care being taken to arrange the spacing of the sticks so that they do not touch each other at any point. Then proceed, and to curve them to the front slightly so that the bottom will be saucer-shaped. When the correct diameter has been reached, the two pair-roads are slipped and pushed through to the front just below the Diagram 29. Diagram 28. 46 preceding round, the ends of the bottom-sticks are cut off close with the shears, and the bottom picked. Round or oval bottoms can, after the opening out, be completed with rounding instead of pairing if desired. In picking, the angle made with the work by the picker's knife is about 30 degrees. The picker's knife should be used even the sever the end is exerted. This is not easy at first, and the shears may be used wherever practicable in the early stages of training, and will always be used in cases where the picker's knife cannot be used without risk would be run in cutting the stakes or other parts of the work with the picking-knife. Ends should be cut as closely as possible, but not so close that they have nothing to rest against. The cut made by the picker's knife should be made parallel to the face of the stake with the face of the work. Having picked the round bottom, the next process is staking up, which consists in driving into the table-cope with concave or hollow side of bottom uppermost. The butts of the slitted stakes are first dipped in the bowl or other vessel of water, which stands on the floor near the table, and then pressed down into their places with a wooden stick end. If a basket with a curved or barrelled side is being made, advantage will be taken of the natural curve of the willow rod, so that when the stakes have been turned up they will curve upwards ; but in cases like this it is necessary to turn them downwards to be straightened out again. When all have been driven in, they will remain in that position until they are turned over, that is, in the position it will occupy in the finished basket, and the stakes kinked up sharply by inserting the point of the hand-knife just beyond the edge of the bottom, and then turning them round as far as they will go. When opened out it will be found that no cracking has occurred. Each stake is allowed to fall back again, and when all have been kinked up, they are brought into a vertical position again and gathered together in bunches ready for being worked between the bottom. The hoop is prevented from slipping off by pushing one or two stakes through between its coils, or turning one or two stakes over it and colling them along its length. At each round three bunches tapped into close with the flat side of the iron, and the upset is begun by inserting the slitted tops of three white rods about two-thirds the thickness of the stakes and of equal size and length as those which are being worked between them. The round is worked well in between the stakes and ends of the bottom-sticks. When the first round has been completed the bottom is pegged to the woodwork by means of a pegging-stick. When three rounds have been reached, when three more bunches are pinned in and worked out to their tops, which completes the upset for this basket, approximately three rounds. 47 The hoop ought now to be removed, but if the stakes have been allowed to play out too much it may be kept on until an inch or so of randing has been worked. When the hoop has been removed the ultimate diameter of the basket is tested by measuring across between opposite stakes at the proposed depth of the basket ; in this case five inches was found to be the best depth. The depth of the basket is measured here that inside measurements are generally used for basketware, but for convenience the depth is usually taken on the outside when the basket is being made. The basket is then turned over and measured inside and outside measurements. The brown stuff is now laid on the right-hand side and used for randing the basket to a depth of three inches, the work being levelled off all round at this depth. A piece of red coal is then put on top of this and the basket is continued in levelling off. Next about three-quarters of an inch of white randing is worked to give variety, this being followed by a little more brown to bring up the sides of the basket to a height of two inches. Two coils of white wool are then wound round the body of the basket and two rounds of white top waling are put on, beginning with three tops, and ending with the three tops of a second set of three rods placed diagonally across one another. The body of the basket is then filled with straw, and the body of the basket completed by bringing them down to form the simple track border described on page 27. If a stake breaks off when being brought down in the border, it is cut off close to the wale, and a substitute stake inserted in its place. The whole process is repeated inside and out, and completed by the putting on of a twisted rod handle as described on pages 33, carried out in white. Rossoi's "Basketry" (see page 16). One of the important things it is necessary for the student to learn is the selection of suitable sized material for the piece of work it is proposed to attempt. This can only be done after careful study, as required by specifications giving the size numbers of the cane to be used for each various parts of the basket, but no such information can be given for willow work because, as previously stated, willows are not graded according to size, but are sold by weight and length, which vary accurately. But even if exact grading according to length were adopted it would hardly be worth while, for thickness varies in rods of the same size, and it would be better to allow each maker his own judgment. Willows are a product of nature, and in consequence exhibit differences not only in proportionate size and length, but also in other respects, such as colour. In fact there is no small part of the skill which is required to produce first-class basketry. For making the present example rods from a bundle of three-foot sticks will be required, consisting of eight inches high and eight inches wide at bottom, eight inches wide at top, four inches deep at bottom and four inches deep at top. The laying-in process is begun with two tops as before, and when these have been paired round three times, each group of four sticks is opened into two twos. Two rounds 48 of pairing are worked with the sticks in two, and with the sixth round they are opened out singly, and paired and continued until bottom to eighth, and disjoined, but not pierced into butts, and tops to tops as before. There are thirty-two stakes and three rounds of upsetting, the latter being begun with four butts, slipped and inserted into bottom by the sides of four adjoining stakes, and the first stake having been disjoined, and its diameter reduced, and the walling continued with three rods ; three more tops are pierced to the first three, and two more butts with the butts of the second three are reached, thith third being completed; the fourth stake is then disjoined, and its diameter reduced, and that of the three rounds or a little more, but the rods are worked to their tops (and left in either case). During the upsetting of this basket, the stakes must be kept in order to prevent them from falling over. The depth of the basket is about at three-and-a-half inches deep being eleven inches. The given depth is in this case approximate as the siding consists of a French rand, the depth of which is determined by the size of the basket. In some cases where a French rand is used in a basket in which a French slew is used. If an exact depth is required in the case of French randing or French slewing, the siding may cease before the end of the basket, when it will be found that it is too shallow. For the bread basket thirty-two randing rods of equal size will have been selected, and these are now worked to form the French rand described on page 21. Approximately two rounds of three-rod top butts are worked, each rod being worked into one side of the basket by carrying each rod behind two stakes and in front of one, instead of in front of two and behind one. The stakes are brought together by means of a pair of tongs, and when each rod of the basket is picked, and completed by putting on two twisted-rood (double) handles on opposite sides of the border, one handle being placed over the crams. The depth of this basket is approximately three inches, and it is shown in diagram 10. ROUND BASKET SUPPLYING BASKET, page 68.—The material for this ranges from the smallest Dicky Meadow up to tools two feet six inches deep. The baskets are made from wood which has been sawn in diameter and in made in the same way as the bottom of the bread basket, with eight bottom-sticks, four through four. Thirty-two stakes are required, and these are worked so that they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have been turned up at both ends so that when they have beenturned described on page 14. The inside top measurement of the example is nine inches, but this could be less according to the style of basket desired ; it should not be more in a basket of this type. ROUND BASKET SOILED LINEN BASKET, page 60.—This is a larger and more advanced form of the basket described on page 14. The size of the basket is comparatively small one. The task of keeping the sides straight and almost upright is not an easy one, and this example may be regarded as being somewhat difficult to make than the basket described on p. 14, a heavier and coarser type. The novice will be well advised, therefore, not to attempt this in the very early stages of training. Five-feet stuff is used for the stakes, and rods ranging from about two feet six inches up to four feet are used for the top and bottom sticks. The former are used for the lid, and for the lid. The latter has a skin slant, and there are two skin handles on the border. The bottom is ten inches in diameter, with ten bottom-sticks, three of which are used for the top and bottom sticks, while the rounds of upsetting, the latter not being worked in close between stakes and bottom-sticks but in the ordinary way a little above the links of the stakes. The top is made by first laying down three tops simply laid in. After the upsetting, ordinary prick running is worked to a depth of two inches at each stake, sloping outwards very slightly as the inside edge of basket is made. Then two rounds of three-rod waling are worked, and then rib-running, the butt of each running-rod being placed against the side of each stake. Then two rounds of waling are worked on each rod in front of two stakes, behind the next, in front of two again, and then working the remainder of the rod in the ordinary way. What has been done with one rod is repeated with another until two rounds of waling put on, to be followed by another small section of ordinary running to correspond with the bottom ; or the whole of the inside edge is worked by running. Then two rounds of top waling are worked, and then the stakes are brought out at an angle with five more rounds of waling to form the neck, these five rounds being produced on the inside of basket. The specimen illus- trated here was made by a beginner who had a plant or rope border could be substituted with more pleasing effect. This basket is now picked, and then turned upside-down to receive the food. The stakes are now inserted into their respective holes which are slyped and pushed down to the left and right respectively of each two of the original stakes. Five rounds of ordinary three-rod waling are then worked, the ends being cut off so that they can be continued round with the rest of the foot it is completed by bringing down the stakes to form a "three-cord-behind-two" border. Next, the two lapped skin handle are added, and then the lid is made. This has twelve sticks, threaded six through six, and tied in and 50 opened out with the skein as previously described. The skein ribbing is continued to a diameter of four or five inches, a pronounced curve being given to the sticks after they have been opened out. The re- maining portion of the skein is then cut off at right angles to the ribbing and ribbing being produced on the convex or top side of the lid. In the waling, the butts and tops are not pieced as in ordinary waling, but butted together by means of a double row of stitches along the edge of the lid. When a diameter about half-an-inch less than that inside the basket is reached the ends of the wale rods are drawn through and the sticks cut off. With the top of the basket thus prepared, the baskets now insere a shaped piece of wood into each end stick, and bring these down and forms them into a "three-fold-behind-one" border. The lid is attached to the basket by means of two hinges, separated by about two inches, which are made by cutting a round rod to fit over the sides of the basket. Each of the hinges is worked as follows : A round rod of suitable size is bent in half by placing the blade of the bodkin near its centre and rotating it until one half of the rod is bent over and then slaved level with each other. This doubled rod is then pushed through from the inside of the basket, an end on either side of a stake, just below the top round of waling. The rod is drawn through, its two halves remaining outside, and then passed back again through both ends, up over the border and down through the lid between the last and last but one rounds of waling. The two ends are then taken through on either side of another stake, and secured by means of a double row of stakes to secure them. This type of hinge, which is well adapted for round lids, must be left loose so as to allow the lid to be raised and lowered easily, because when a round lid is raised only one point remains in contact with the stake, while all others are free to move on either side separating from it, and therefore requiring a roomy hinge. The basket is completed by putting a single three-strand twisted loop on the front of each end stick, and a similar loop on each side stick. This single twisted rod handle described on page 51, although the present piece of work, being meant to accommodate the finger only, is very much smaller. **OVAL WORK.** **Oval Tray with Willow Edge(s), frontispiece.—Being oval in shape, the tray about to be described has been included in this section, but there is no essential difference between this particular shape and any other as far as the willow work is concerned, except in the case of special designs which may require more than one edge if desired. Willow-edged trays are really nothing else than very shallow baskets with wooden bottoms or bases, so that by including some form of siding between the first two rounds of waling and the last two, baskets of various shapes and sizes can be made, all other details being 51 the same as for trays. For the present example buff is used, Dicky Meadows for preference, about two feet long. From a prepared bundle of this, select and slype the requisite number of stakes, which will be the same as the number of holes in the base. Now, holding the base upright on the lap, insert three stakes into three adjoining holes, butts to the outside, and then take up the other three stakes. The first of the tray is then begun by taking the first stake over the second and leaving its end resting under the third, sufficient surplus being left to ensure that when the work is completed it will be possible to remove one of unslyped rod will be left beyond the stake. A fourth stake is now inserted to the right of the third stake, the second stake is worked in the same manner as before, and so forth until all four stakes have been used, threading the last butt into position under the first. The work is then placed on the table and each stake is pulled up to make sure that all are tight. Four rounds of bordering are now worked, beginning with each end with tops, the whole being turned over to the outside or inside according to choice. To complete the tray stokes are brought down to form a "four-rod-behind-one" border with ends worked in a similar manner. This is a very simple kind of border, but two kinds of border is not a traditional one, and the writer has not seen it used in willow work. He believes it to have been introduced by the Dryad Society at their exhibition in 1876. In this case, where a basket in willow is included here. The finishing strokes of the plain border are drawn through into position instead of being crammed, and the track, which can be begun at any point, is formed by taking each rod over the next two rods and then bringing them back again underneath the next; or some other form of simple track can be substituted. **Oval**, **Brown** and **White Garden Basket**, frontispiece. This example shows how a basket may be made from only small and simple specimens of its kind, suitable in the earlier stages of training; but it may be mentioned now, that the reader is not asked to adhere strictly to these examples, but rather to use them merely as suggestions, and were designed primarily to include the various kinds of weaving, borders, etc. It will be far better for him to become as soon as possible his own teacher, and he can begin to develop his own ideas upon an important side of his art by selecting a shape, form of siding, border, handle, etc., from among the examples and combining these in a basket designed by himself. A simple example of this kind is shown in fig. 305 (p. 104), where a plain border with the back-track in the case of the tray just described. The combination of brown and white willow is a pleasing one, and has the advantage that it does not require any special treatment in basket making materials, a further advantage being that brown stuff is more easily worked than either white or buff on account of its softness and pliability. For this very reason, however, it is not recommended for 52 use as bottom-sticks or stakes, where a certain degree of stiffness is necessary. Buff and white or brown and buff do not make such good combinations as far as colour is concerned. For oval bottoms and lids, as well as round ones, the simple and relatively cheap method of using one set of sticks through the other set instead of using slath-rods to form the end sticks with their butts, is recommended. The sticks for the bottom of the garden basket are usually made of willow, and are cut about two inches wide by a com- pleted bottom being twelve inches by seven inches. This may be regarded as the smallest size in this particular type of basket, a fact which applies also to the other sizes. For these sizes three under-mesh sticks and a proportionately greater number of bottom- sticks and stakes can be planned by the worker, these larger sizes being adapted to meet the requirements of other larger kinds of baskets also. In making the bottom of the oval basket, four long sticks are used and the four long sticks threaded through them. The short sticks are then spaced as shown in diagram 30, the length of stick beyond the pairs at each end being equal to that of the pair between them. In making a red body, on similar lines to those adopted in a round bottom, the first two tops being pushed into the split on the left of a group of four at one end. When the second pair has been worked out, brown is used for the remaining two pairs, and when all four pairs have been worked to tops, and when about half the bottom has been worked, reverse paving is used for the remainder, so as to overcome the tendency of an oval basket to roll over on its side. The top-hand stick is brought forward in the course of work, and the left-hand rod is brought to the front, passed in front of the next bottom-stick, and put through to the back again, this being repeated with each rod alternately. When the bottom is large enough, it is turned over on its side, and worked in exactly the preceding round, the bottom sticks cut off, and the bottom picked. The stakes are white, forty-one in number, a single stake being inserted into each hoop. The hoops are made from willow, and the remaining stick-ends having two stakes each, except one in one end, which has one stake only, to make the odd number necessary in this case because the siding is a few. For oval baskets an oval hoop is used, in order that it may be more easily bent into shape. After upsetting this after the upsetting, and allow the side stakes to remain in the hoop some little while longer, as the sides of an oval basket tend to splay out somewhat unless they are kept in place for a short time. This method is very suitable for oblong baskets, also as the stakes tend to bunch up in the corners of a rectangular hoop. The present basket has three rounds of stakes on each hoop, but this arrangement may be varied according to taste. The siding is a two-row slaw, brown, the depth under the top wale being three inches, and the inside top measurements of the basket at this point being fourteen inches by eight inches. When three inches of 53 brown slewing have been worked, one round of three-rod top waling, white, is put on, and the stakes brought down into a 'three-rod-beehive'-one rod bedded. The centre handle in the example is three bowes pushed down to the side of three-rod top waling, at each side of the basket ; the centre bow may be tongued at each end and used in the same way as a leader to secure the handle. The three bows are Diagram 30. brought together by means of randing, brown being used, with one white rod to give variety. The butts and tops of the randing rods used for this purpose are left on the inside, and when both sides of the basket are completed, they are removed. The bottom is made up with white skinn, with one or two skinn leaders to form a pattern. OVAL BUFF SHOPPING BASKET, frontispiece.—The bottom of this is six inches wide and four inches deep, and consists of two pairs of bottom sticks nine inches and six inches long respectively. This bottom is proportionately wider than that of the foregoing example, a matter which will be readily understood when it is observed that the outer bottom sticks are set out. In this case, the distance between the outer pairs of short sticks is roughly one-half the length of the bottom, the remaining four short sticks being spaced equally between the two pairs as before. There are no leaders in this basket, but it is worked in a similar way, and completed with ordinary and reverse pairing in the same way as that of the garden basket. It is also staked up in a similar way, there being no extra small and fine one of its type, and the same number of bottom-sticks and stakes could be used in a larger basket, one with a ten-inch by seven-inch bottom. The upsetting, which is begun at the tops, consists of one or two short sticks being worked over each other, and this upsetting is a diagonal skew. This is carried to a depth of four inches, with an inside measurement at 54 this depth of nine inches by six inches, and two middle stakes at each side are treated as one to form bow-marks, two or three stout stakes are being placed on the top to support the basket when an end or so of sliding has been worked. In the border, in this case a rope, the left-hand stake of the two is passed by and cut off after the border is finished. Two or three bows are next inserted in the bow-marks, and a lining of twine is then put in place. The basket is then considered being tongued at each end and used to secure the handle as explained on page 42. RECTANGULAR WORK. In the basket trade, all rectangular work is known as "square," but in this connection it must be observed that it somewhat differs from traditional usage, and confine the term square to baskets whose four sides are equal, using "oblong" to designate baskets which have two long sides and two short ones. As previously indicated, rectangular work is generally made with a bottom which is flat and square still round ; but as far as rectangular bottoms are concerned, the writer is not at all sure that these would not make one of the best preliminary exercises for a beginner. It is true that the making of a basket of a baby's basket described below would be little, if any, more difficult than the making of a simple round basket. This is chiefly because the corners of the baby's basket are not square at all, but rounded ; and it is only necessary to make them square in order to make them sufficiently. These have a strong tendency to slant to the left, this being caused by the upset. During the upsetting, therefore, the corners of all rect- angular baskets should be kept parallel with the sides. Another tendency which has to be counteracted is that of the sides to bulge out beyond the corners. The most important stakes in a rectangular basket are those next to the corners, and they should be kept well in while the staking is being done. The stakes should also be kept straight. Another tendency to be checked in rectangular work is that of the stakes to bunch together in the centre of the sides and ends, and here again, they should be kept straight. The stakes should also be kept parallel with the corners, and not allowed to slant away from them, for it will be found that if the stakes next to the corners are kept right it will fail to prevent them from bulging out into a good shape. After upsetting a rectangular basket, it will be found a good plan to put ties from side to side and end to end immediately above the upset, to prevent the sides and ends from bulging. The rods used as ties are cut about three-quarters of an inch wide and half an inch thick. They are com- 55 monly used in rectangular work, those which employ corner-sticks or posts, and those which do not. The use of corner-sticks is to be recommended to amateurs and craft workers, as they greatly simplify the task of getting a true shape, and also have a better appearance. The other corner, sometimes called a blunt corner, is formed on the stakes at the ends of the sides and the ends of the basket, these stakes being set somewhat closer together than they are when a corner-stick is placed between them. If blunt corners are used, each of the comer-stakes may be strengthened by inserting a stout piece of dry rod by its side, which will prevent the basket from becoming distorted. As this is described a little later, the baby's basket now to be described having neither corner-tucks nor blunt corners, but rounded ones, which, strictly speaking, are not corners at all, but merely angles where the top is concerned. The bottom however, is a true oblong one, and the sides and ends are to be kept flat as in rectangular work. On account of the sides being made of wood, instead of rectangular bottoms, the sticks can either run lengthwise or crosswise, a larger number being necessary if the latter method be adopted. The length-wise method is recommended as it is easier to make and to be said for both other, particularly in the case of a relatively long basket. In the crosswise method the sides can be made absolutely parallel, the outside bottom-sticks being in this case at what will be the ends of the basket, whereas in the lengthwise method they must be made to diverge from the outside sticks from drawing inwards and thus making the bottom narrower at one end than at the other. This tendency on part of the outside sticks towards drawing inwards is shown in diagram 30. A simple device shown in diagram 31, where the bottom sticks for the present example are in the screw-block ready for the work to begin. It will be seen that the screw-block is made of two pieces of wooded cross-pieces with a right-hand outside stick is fixed to it byawl thus enabling the distance between the sticks to be adjusted if need be. If it is found that the bottom is becoming too narrow, theawl is removed and another stick inserted into its place. If it is found to be moved to the left again if necessary later on. In closed-runged work in particular, it will be found necessary to have the outside sticks farther apart at one end than at another for a bottom, and it will usually be necessary in the case of light randing also. For the baby's basket, six stick buffers, twelve inches long, will be required, four of them being used for each side and end stick for the outside sticks being slightly thicker. These are inserted into the top in the screw-block, the distance apart of the outside-sticks being seven inches, the sticks being stopped off at their ends where necessary, to enable them to fit snugly into their places. The cross-piece must not be too large to hold the smaller ends. When the block has been screwed up tightly, and the cross-piece adjusted so that the outside-sticks are about three-quarters of an inch apart at their ends, then by turning round of the bottom with two feet six inches to three feet buff can be begun. First of all, however, a pair is worked in the case of a bottom, this being unnecessary for a lid, in which the randing is begun immediately upon 56 the screw-block. The pair is formed by placing a long rod between the first and second sticks with about half its length in front and half at the back, the butt end being in front. The other end is then brought round the outside-stick, and the pair is continued until the butt end of the rod rests against the front of the right-hand outside-stick. At this point, the pairing is discontinued, the butt end being taken round the outside-stick to rest against the left-hand outside-stick, and then the outside-stick, and left at the back of the work resting against the next stick. The other end of the rod, which was left in front, is then taken through to the bottom-stick, and paired with another rod from the same side, and then used to begin the ordinary randing, backwards and forwards. When the top of the first and successive rods is reached, this is left at the bottom-stick, and a new rod is placed on top of it, and paired against the same stick, also at the back; or the rods may be placed butt to butt and top to top. When the bottom is a little short of ten inches long, another pair is worked in the same way as the first, except that the butt, instead of being taken round the outside-stick, is brought down to rest on the last stroke, between the second and third sticks from the right, where the other end of the rod projects to the front. Both these ends are then cut off close together. This operation is repeated until both ends of bottom-sticks cut off close. The cross-piece will previously have been removed when the work has got too close to it to allow of the rods being taken round the outside-sticks. Before commencing to decide whether the "tight" side of the bottom shall be above or below in the finished basket. If the interior of the basket is to be left exposed to view, then the rough side will be above; but if it is to be covered with cloth, "tight" will be underneath. The staking of ends of a rectangular bottom is performed in the same way as for a round or oval basket, the stakes being pushed into holes made through each corner of a rectangle. In present basket a stake will be inserted by the side of each outside stick, and one on each side of the other four sticks, one stake being left out to make an odd number. The stakes along the sides of a rectangular basket are driven into holes made through the centre of stick with the bodkin, the hole slanting upwards somewhat, so that butt of the stake will be on the upper side of it. When all these stakes are in place, the basket is picked up. In present instance there will be thirteen stakes at each side; two or three ones in each case being put in a little distance from the corners, then one in the centre of the side, and the remainder spaced evenly apart. The stakes are now driven into holes made through each corner between the existing two to form the rounded corners intro- duced into this particular basket. In staking up rectangular baskets, it is usual to put in the end stakes first and gather them into the hoop, 57 then proceed to insert the side sticks, knitting them up and putting them into the basket one by one. Our present example now has four rounds of buff stitching, three-rod-through, beginning with two rods of tops, one at each end near the left-hand corner. After this basket is filled with buff skeins to a depth of three inches, the inside top measure- ments become important, because by this time the round rods of the be- cot rod top waling are all put in place, and the basket is completed by working the simple plain border described on page 60. CLOSE RANDED PICNIC BASKET. BUFF THROUGHOUT, page 66.—This may be made in any size desired. It can be simplified by being made light-randed instead of close-randed. The inside dimen- sions, which include the length and width of the bottom, are as follows: Length, 30 inches; Width, 18 inches. The basket is made in this way: The basket is upright or nearly so, making the details of the top measure- ment unnecessary; it is usual in this kind of basket to allow the sides to flow down to the bottom without a sharp angle at the corners; this is the same as that of the bottom. With regard to the depth, if this is taken on the outside before the border, it will be approximately the same as that of the bottom. The round rods are used for measuring for the difference between the inside and outside overall measure- ments. The bottom has seven sticks, and is made in the same way as that of the previous example, except that the iron is in continuous use, beating out both sides of each stick at once. In order to get the outside-sticks of the bottom and the lid, so that it will be necessary in each case to set the sticks farther apart by adjusting the cross-piece so that they do not touch each other when laid flat against the bottom. As the randing proceeds, the measure or a gauge will be used from time to time to test the width of the work. This basket has four- teen by ten stakes, the corner pieces being placed so as to allow of the introduction of a single stick between them. It will be impossible for the novice to carry a basket such as this up straight without some mechanical aid, and there will no reason why it should not be made in any size desired. Diagram 35 shows a simple but efficient home-made frame for holding the corner-sticks in position. This is of wood and can be adjusted by means of a screw or bolt passing through it parallel to its length and width. The wood for the centre-piece should be at least half-an-inch thick, but the corner pieces need not be so stout. Each of the latter has a nail driven through it into a piece of wood about an inch long which should be two or three inches longer than the depth of basket so that the frame is high enough not to interfere with the siding. The four corner pieces are spaced so that one-third of their length extends over the corner of bottom, while when the round of upsetting reaches it, one rod of the upsetting being laid behind the corner-stick, and the remainder passed in front of it just as though it were an ordinary stake. 58 upsetting is begun with a set of tops at each side as before, and the beginner will find it simpler to make the first round a three-rod one, although a four-rod first round is more usual. After the four corner-sticks have been fastened into position, the fourth frame is placed on top of the third round of upsetting sticks. The close-randing, which may be begun at both ends of basket near left-hand corner, is then worked to a depth of two inches, levelled off, and raised to the required height by means of the rod used for upsetting. The work on what is to be the front of the basket, two rods being used, and the randing is then continued to a depth of three-and-a-half inches, when the second round of upsetting sticks is commenced. These sticks are then brought down into a four-rod-behind-two plain border with sharp corners, the corner-sticks having been cut off close to the wale, and a rod inserted into a hole made with the bodkin in the top of each, for the purpose of holding them in place. The work is then proceeded as follows : When the stroke from the front has been laid behind the corner stakes, bring down both the stakes on left of corner to join it, so that they form a single stake, and then bring down both stakes on only two. Holding these three from underneath, with the left hand palm, uppermost, bring up the next rod from the front (the right-hand rod of the left-hand part) and hold it between thumb and forefinger with the left thumb resting on top of the right-hand rod of the next stake so that two rods are being held by the left thumb, side by side and close up to the corner stake. Now, with the right hand, bring the right-hand rod of the next stake down over this rod and hold it between thumb and forefinger so that it takes on the right of corner stake, and to the front, leaving it there as a single. Next take the left-hand rod of the two held by the thumb and carry it behind this third stake from underneath, and then bring down the corner stake alone from underneath. There is now a single and a three at a corner. Work the single rod first, bringing its complementary stake down with it, and then the right-hand rod of the three, leaving the other two rods in their places until all three have been completed. In the ordinary way till the next corner is reached, the single rod being used as though it were the right-hand end of a pair. After all three rounds have been completed, all staples are worked on the border in front, i.e., that side where the handle has been put. The staples are placed above the fourth stake from each corner, and are worked as follows : Bend a rod in half and loop it round the two inside staples at each corner; then bend another rod in half and loop it round it also, and form the three members into a simple three-way plait. Continue the plaiting for about two inches, and, after cutting the ends level, take out one staple from each corner and insert another in its place in the centre of border on top to the inside just under the two strokes round which the first rod was looped. Undo the plait to this point, and leaving one end to be cut off secure the other two by working them along under 59 the border. The height of the staple thus formed should be just sufficient to allow a rod to be passed through above the lid, which has a hole to accommodate the same. The lid is now proceeded with. This has eight sticks, and its width is the same as the outside width of the top of basket. After the sticks have been placed on the board, they are all laid out in their required position, close-ending is begun and continued to the point where the first hole is to be formed, an allowance of about an eighth-of-an-inch being made for the thickness of the lid, which is to be added later. The lid is formed by turning this staple into the outside stick; next to the outside stick ; the hole can be formed either on the right or the left of the lid, but the right is perhaps the easier. When half-an-inch has been allowed for the thickness of the lid, it is pushed down alongside the outside-stick, this bound closely round it for half-an-inch, and used to continue the randing in the ordinary way. The distance between holes must be measured, for it is not possible to alter it later, whereas the distance from holes to ends of lid are not so important as randing can be added or taken away at pleasure. The second hole is then formed, and continued beyond the second hole for about the right distance, the lid is removed from block, picked, and placed in position on the basket, with holes over the staples. It is then an easy matter to mark each inside-stick with a pencil line parallel to that of the outside-stick along the border of the basket. A little more randing can be added if necessary, or some taken away, and the inside sticks are cut off at the pencil marks ; but not the outside sticks, which must be left till the lid has been bordered. With the reverse side of lid to the front, the border stakes are inserted, one on the right of the left-hand outside-stick, and one on the left of it. The other two are inserted on both sides of those being left without a stake. A rod is now laid between the left-hand outside-stick and the stick on its right, the half of this rod on the far side is taken completely round it and held in place by a staple driven into it behind the next stake and to the front, the stake next to outside-stick being brought down alongside it. The single rod is now taken behind the third stake and held in place by another staple driven alongside it. This gives the two pairs for the two-rod plain border, which is continued until the right-hand pair rests against the right-hand outside-stick. The other pair is then inserted in exactly similar manner. The two rods are inserted in each end of the outside-stick, and the right-hand rod of the pair which rests against it is taken right round both stick and rod so that it holds them together, then passed through from below to above to make a loop. In this way a length of about three inches is crammed alongside the outside-stick, this piece of rod or bodkin being withdrawn for the purpose. The other rod is then pulled tight and 60 brought through to the front under border to secure it. To prevent the border from slipping off, the finish is driven through the last stroke on outside stick and into the latter, and the lid completed by cutting off the outside sticks and the border tops. The lid is attached to the basket by two hinges placed opposite the holes. To form the hinge a rod is doubled round the two inside struts, and then twisted round the other two rods, one of which is a second rod, the two halves are twisted one upon the other as for the linen basket hinge. The twist is then taken up through the lid between the randing imprints, and then down over the top of the lid, and downwards down outside border, and the two rods pushed through into inside of basket, one on each side of a stake immediately under the border, the twist being undone so that it finishes against the stake, and the hinge is quite tight. When this is now done to its full length, in order to fasten it to the lid, the staples being opened out by thrusting the bodkin through them if necessary. OTHER SHAPES AND KINDS OF WORK. As previously mentioned, if it is desired to produce shapes other than the simple round, oval, and rectangular described in the foregoing pages, it will be found that all kinds of baskets can be made bottom cut exactly to the proportions required, hexagonal, octagonal, oblong with curved ends or sides, or other shapes in infinite variety. Given the wooden bottom, it will not be difficult to build up the sides and lay down a lining of any material desired. This is shown in some of the foregoing pages ; but if the out-of-the-ordinary shaped basket is to have a lid, this must be constructed on a rigid hoop turned to the desired shape. The hoop may be made of wood or metal; if of wood, it must be bent at once when put on to make it fit snugly round the basket; and when the randing or other form of weaving has reached the opposite side of the hoop, the stakes are twisted or tongued, and secured by scoldingam as at the beginning. Bottoms cut, of course, be constructed in such a way as to allow for expansion and contraction occasioned to the hoop; and the worker who is really keen on mastering his craft will not resort to the use of wooden bottoms unless absolutely neces- sary. A fairly simple shape is the half-moon, which will now be described. BUFF HALF-MOON CYCLE BASKET, page 68.—The curved part of the bottom of this basket is formed by turning a stout rod from a bundle of five-foot or six-foot stuff in precisely the same way as for a handle bow. The curve is made by holding both ends of rod apart. The bow for the present basket should be nine inches from side to side and four-and-a-half inches from centre of curve, these being the dimensions of finished bottom. To the curved part of the hoop, eight stakes are now scoldam, these being stout and long enough to be 61 turned up and used as stakes for the flat back-side of basket. In scalloping a long tongue is formed at the butt-end of the stake by splitting off about half its thickness with the hand-knife. This tongue is then placed with cut side against the hoop, and taken round under it, up on to the top, and then tightly over the stake to the right, its end being held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stake is then laid, and the scallop is turned to the left and its end laid under the next stake. The bottom is now randed to four-and-a-half inches from front to rear, the round of three rods being placed in position, one on each side of the two round stakes and the two on either side of them so that the work will be straight from side to side. The bottom is finished with a pair, the ends of which are cut square, and these are inserted into the whole of the stakes, ten in number, turned up. Twenty-two stakes for the curved part are then scalloped on to the hoop, and, after working a pair at a time, all twenty-four stakes are scalloped. For the scallops, two rounds of three rod upsetting are worked, corner sticks being added at each of the two corners. These corner sticks can be held in position by the cross piece used in a rectangular bottom, as they are to be upwards and downwards. The sides are now scalloped, and water flows out to six inches from front to back at the top. The sides are now randed to a depth of three-and-half inches when a round of three rods is placed in position, one on each side of the two round stakes being brought down with the wale to form a short section of three-rod border. This is to form a hole to accommodate the lamp-bracket. Randal is continued until a round of three rods is placed in position turned on both stakcs at either side of the hole. Then a stout double stake is placed in the hole as shown in illustration, two stakes are scalloped to this in place of the two bordered down, and two rounds of three rods are placed in position at each end of this double stake ; and a stake driven into the top of each, the stakes being then brought down into a five-rod-behind-one border with sharp corners, which are formed by cutting off one-third of each rod. The basket is now built begun at back, and when it has been crammed off, and the basket picked, two straps are passed through under the border at the back for attachment to the handle-bows. When this is done, and all other parts set of this shape, the two ends of hoop would be spliced together at the back, and the lid-stakes scalloped to the hoop to finish them off ; the bottom could also be constructed on these lines, in which case all the side stakcs would be scalloped. Scallops are used also for the lids of the "Southport" basket illus- trated on page 67, which has a hag, noose, and "peg" of twisted rod, a twisted rod being used for each scallop. The basket thus formed has its twist running in the reverse direction to that of its neighbour. In the boat basket illustrated on page 67, the handle bows are scalloped to the top framework of the basket. Both these baskets 62 A diagram showing a nail being driven into a metal bracket. **DIAGRAM 52** Scalloping A diagram showing a screw block with an adjustable cross-plate in position. **DIAGRAM 31** Bottom - niddle in Screw-block with adjustable cross-plate in position A diagram showing a frame for rectangular work. **DIAGRAM 53** Frame for rectangular work 63 are examples of a class of work which the writer believes to have possibilities of useful development, namely, willow work on frames. In the case of centre cane-work, the Dryad Handicrafts supply ready-made frames to be filled in by the craftsman, and some of these frames could be used for fine willow work. The making of the frames would be outside the province of most makers of baskets. It should not be disregarded if we are to see any sort of revival of the willow work industry in this country, for by the use of frame, larger workers can produce baskets of greater size than they could with the range of the fine willow worker. The indigenous willow could be used in the production of the frames, as it already is in the case of the famistier 'stick chairs' produced in large quantities in Somerset and one or two other parts of the country. **CONCLUSION** The writer would like to conclude this little effort on a note of optimism, and this, indeed, would be quite sincere; but honesty forbids the raising of high hopes which the craft of willow basketry is im- possible of attaining. The skill required is great, and though it always will have, much to commend it, but from an economic stand-point it is at present hardly remunerative enough to interest the ambitious craftsman. But there is another side to the question—the appreciation of genuine handwork coupled with originality of design so that a sufficient number of lovers of craft will be willing to pay adequately for the skill and care embodied in a good piece of basketry. The writer has no doubt that this is true; and he thinks that it is about the most important single factor in the revival of willow basketry in this country. What is wanted is not something fantastic or bizarre, but just such things as are made by those who have a real love for their craft. The evolution of good new designs is by no means an easy matter, but it, nevertheless, well worth attempting, as the maker who can intro- duce something new into his trade has a distinct advantage over one who keeps mainly to traditional forms. The hire-clerk may be out of place that it is simply foolish to attempt to compete with imported baskets by imitating them. Just as a good education, regarding the use of the mentality in this craft. Of the mental attributes which can helpfully be brought into play, visualisation is perhaps the most useful. If the student will build up a picture in his mind's eye before him, he will find himself seeing it mentally, complete and perfect, before taking hold of a rod, he will find this a great help when the work is in hand. By so doing he is able to see what he wants before he starts to make it. This having already become familiar with the road by traversing it mentally; and by so doing he comes into close touch with the spirit of the thing—a very real part of it, perhaps the only real part. 64 CORRECT POSITIONS FOR WORKING. 65 A round white bread or fruit basket. A close-raveled buff picnic basket. Above : ROUND WHITE BREAD OR FRUIT BASKET. Below : CLOSE-RAVELLED BUFF PICNIC BASKET. 66 Above : BOAT BASKET AND LIDDED "SOUTHPORT" BASKET. Below : OBLONG BUFF BABY'S OR WORK BASKET. 67 HALF-MOON BUFF CYCLE BASKET. ROUND BUFF SHOPPING BASKET. 68 A round wicker basket with a lid and handles. DRYAD ROUND BUFF LINEN BASKET. 69 DRYAD TOOLS & MATERIALS for Weaving, Rushwork, Raffia work, Leatherwork, Bookbinding, Canework, Pottery, Linoleum Printing and Decorative Painting, etc., etc. We have always in stock a full range of requisites for the above and many other crafts, at competitive prices. DRYAD MATERIALS for WILLOW BASKETRY are thoroughly reliable as they are selected by actual workers at the craft. Send for 160 page illustrated catalogue post free 3d. from Dryad Handicrafts, Leicester # Some Dryad Books on Basketry **RAFFIA WORK**, by Elsie Mochrie (Dryad Handicrafts). This is the result of numerous enquiries for a practical book dealing with the various methods of raffia weaving, including basket-making, plaiting, weaving, canvas work, baskectry, etc., and a description of the growth of the raffia palm. Illustrated with 15 full pages of working drawings and illustrations, and 4 photographs. 64 pages. 1/6, by post 3/10. **CANE WORK**, by Charles Crampton (Dryad Handicrafts). A practical book, written by a basket maker of many years experience, explaining the making of trays, workbaskets, handbaskets, etc., and describing in detail the various weaves, borders and handles. 9 full-page illustrations and 31 working illustrations in text. 1/6, by post 3/10. **CANE WORK ON SIMPLE FRAMES**, by Charles Crampton. This booklet is intended for those who have mastered the elements of simple basket-making. Full instructions are given for making rush seats, stools, cestand, handbasket, child's chair, workstand and linen basket on frames supplied by the Dryad Press. 8 full-page drawings and 3 working drawings in text. 1/2, by post 1/2. **RUSH WORK**, by Charles Crampton. A handbook on the growth, preparation, and working of rushes. The various forms of rush plants are described, together with exactly constructed instructions for seating chairs and making baskets, hassocks, and other articles. Illustrated with 6 full-page drawings and photographs, and 6 illustrations in text. 30 pages. 1/4, by post 1/4. The Dryad Press, Leicester A blank page with a light beige background. A green textured background with a small rectangular area at the bottom right corner.